Monthly Archives: August 2024

August is winding down, but not the heat!

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The heat spell continues. Daily temperatures of 35C, 95F. Not quite as bad as the over 100 days. At night it cools enough to sleep well. Looks like we have another week of this heat and then it begins to cool to around 30C.

We get our errands done in the mornings. I need one more big pot and would like to get it from our Molini Popolari so it matches the one for the kumquat. But they are sold out and I keep checking to see if they got more. Anyway, they have not. But I did notice this whole array of chicken coops. From very tiny, how many chickens could they hold. One? Two? And up to very large. I have always wanted to keep a couple chickens. But on a roof terrace? I dunno.

I finally bought a cabinet that will hold all my garden stuff, brooms and dust pans. We assembled it on Sunday. I hate assembling things. But we managed with only one mistake and that one wasn’t our fault! Nothing makes me happier than organizing things and making things tidy. Check this out!

Umbertide has begun a major building project. I can’t make hide nor hair of how this is going to work. The aim is to integrate our collegiata, the 15th century round church, into the Centro more. They are separated from each other now by a parking lot and a road. I read they will change the traffic patterns and there will be more places to sit. Here is a scan of the changes. If you can figure it out, let me know!

And on a very sad (and angry) note. There was some major vandalism in the Centro of Umbertide. One of my favorite things was destroyed. It was a pretty Madonna in an arch on a building. They gouged out her face then spray painted all over her. Some people have nothing better to do.

Screenshot

Thursday is the beginning of our huge annual festa, Otto Cento. Merriment and mayhem will prevail. Food, drinks, stilt walkers, dancers, music, costumes. All in the spirit of the late 1800s when Italy became a country. It lasts for four days. We used to live just above it all and it was loud. Now, we have to walk in to visit. If you’re interested type Otto Cento in the search bar on this site to see other years festivals. Lotsa pictures.

Un abbraccio a tutti!

Tenuta Borgo Santa Cecilia

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I promised to write about our lunch today. It was a doozie. We went with our friends Jane and Christie. This restaurant we have visited twice before a few years ago. It is way out in the countryside south of Gubbio. A beautiful location on a ridge top with views of the very high Sibillini mountains in one side and Monte Acuto and the smaller mountains on the other. The food is innovative and uses much local foraged produce. It also uses a lot of fermented items. So, without further ado….

To begin, we had 3 small “gifts” from the chef. One was a take on sushi with cured pigeon for us meat eaters. Then a caramelized savory crème brûlée and the last was a bottarga covered unknown other but it was delicious. They all were.

I started with a grilled melon with a goat cheese schmear plus other delicious other bits to include fermented arugula.

Luther got the amazing tortelli di cacciagione, tobacco, e stracchino di capra. It was marvelous and weird.

I had the melanzana glassata – eggplant but so, so much more!

Finally we shared a dessert. Carota, mandorla e fava tonka.

We had arrived just when a ferocious thunderstorm arrived. It was very atmospheric. This was kind of a last supper, ok, last pranzo 😊 with our friends who return to the US on Wednesday after around 6 months here. We wanted to take them somewhere different. It was great fun. A delicious meal with good friends.

Buona domenica!

Sabato in Umbertide

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It is an August Saturday in Umbertide. As I always do on Saturday, I went in to the market. It is brimming with summer produce. I bought a bunch of tomatoes, zucchini, a big beet, lettuce, and half a sugar baby watermelon from one vendor, oh, and ten eggs from the nice Sardinian cheese lady. Eggs are sold in different amounts in the stores here. They sell them in a four pack, and in a ten pack. In the market you can just say how many you want. Like six, or three. I bring a box for them to use. Eggs are not refrigerated here because they are not washed. They leave the film that coats them when they are laid which keeps the bacteria out. Although sometimes, when it is very hot, I will pop them in the refrigerator to extend their life.

Here are some pictures of my town and of the market starting with my entering the centro. The Rocca, our fortress, there since the 800s, dominates the town.

Entering Piazza Matteotti the market tents take up the square.

The vegetables and fruits are beautiful! All the summer fruits. The peaches are in now, the pears just beginning, and the plums! Roma tomatoes dominate but some stands still have salad tomatoes.

There are vendors selling other things as well. All must be produced/made by the vendor. This first is the dried legumes for which Umbria is famous. The next one is the black summer truffles for which Umbria is ALSO very famous. Then jams and honeys.

This ceramics guy is always here. I have one or two of his pieces. They are made here in town.

Back home with my treasures I finished the tomato tart I had begun early this morning. I made the pastry and refrigerated it. When I got home I finished it and popped it into the oven. It heated up the house somewhat but not too bad. Since I had the oven on and heated I popped the big beet I had bought in to roast. It will make a nice salad with feta and toasted nuts. Here is the finished tart. A David Leibovitz recipe.

We will have the tart with a small salad and a bowl of the cold tomato soup that I made earlier in the week. Vegetarian to make up for the steak extravaganza last night! 😁

Picanha

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We paid a visit to our favorite butcher, Etrusco, this week. He was posting pictures of his amazing meats and this particular cut caught my eye. Picanha. A cut first popularized in Brazil, and adopted by Portugal. I had not heard of it. Apparently it is not common in the U.S. The steak comes from what was called a bue grasso, or fat ox. This is the huge white cattle they have here. A multipurpose animal. In the past they plowed the fields under harness and pulled the cart. They also gave milk in limited quantities, and they were used as meat. Huge gentle beasts, pure white. I could certainly never kill one. But, I am certain that this butcher sources his animals locally and that the animals are grass fed, happy during their lives, and slaughtered in a humane way.

We bought a steak and also some other meat, much of it from the bue grasso. Well veined with fat, I guess that’s why they call them grasso. (Sorry, my vegetarian friends) Tonight I built a wood fire in the outside fireplace, despite the heat, and grilled the steak.

I must say was one of the best steaks we have ever had. Very tender and oh so flavorful. I served it with a tomato mozzarella di bufala salad. The tomatoes are from my plants. They are sweet. The basil is from the basil plants that ate manhattan! 😉🤣

Buon appetito!
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This weekend will be when the weather changes. Tomorrow is the kilo 0 market. I will buy more tomatoes while they last. They won’t be around much longer. On Sunday we are going to a restaurant with our friends Christie and Jane. It is the end of a long stay for them. The weather will be cooler, in the 20s. I will do a post about the restaurant for sure. Buon fine settimana!

Salmorejo Andalusian Soup

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A note to all. I was asked to publish the recipes, so I put the pickle relish recipe and the Tomato Butter Sauce from a couple posts ago on the Recipe tab in the top menu. I hope you enjoy them!
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Today I am trying a new cold soup. Well, new to me anyway. Someone posted in a group I follow on Facebook that they were using up the bounty of tomatoes in their garden and this is what they made. Being as we are still in this dastardly heat wave I’m stressing my brain to make things that need little or no cooking. Cool cooking at its best! Super easy to make.

We are soooo lucky to live here where the produce is like diamonds, sparkling in the sun. The tomatoes are ruby red and plump with juice. I realized when we were in Germany that there was a huge difference in quality of products between Italy and Germany, which gets their produce primarily from Holland, notorious for its hothouse veggies with zero taste. I guess I am spoiled. I forgot not everyone has what we take for granted here.

So here’s the recipe for Salmorejo Andalusian Soup.

Take a kilo of ripe home grown tomatoes (2.2lbs). I used romas. The original recipe said you didn’t have to peel or seed them, but I decided to parboil, peel and deseed (I did this early morning when it’s not so hot). Apparently if you’ve got a blender you can just throw them in and whiz until even the skin is undetectable, but I only have a processor. Cut into chunks 200 grams (7 ounces) day old loaf of bread. Soak in water until soft and squeeze water out. Add to tomatoes. 2 garlic cloves crushed, add to tomatoes. 1 tablespoon vinegar (preferably sherry, but any will do), add to tomatoes. 120 grams (1/2 cup) extra virgin olive oil, add. A tablespoon salt and pepper. Blend all together until consistency of yogurt. Chill. When ready to serve, taste and adjust salt and pepper. Optional: serve with a sliced hard boiled egg and some prosciutto on top and drizzle with oil. Yum!

Buon appetito!
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PS, the good news for us is that the heat spell will finally break starting Saturday. Next week I even see one day that’s supposed to be 29 degrees. Wowsa! Maybe we can actually leave the house and do something fun, imagine that! 😳

PPS, Moon tonight! After the rains.

What we can’t find…we make!

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Maybe you all don’t use or like sweet pickle relish but our household always has it, and so did my Mother’s. We use it in tuna salad, chicken salad and potato salad. Thing is, you won’t find anything remotely like it here. Also you’ll never find nice dill pickles. Alas. So we make our own. I say we, because Luther uses it a lot in tuna salad so I told him there is a TON of chopping so you can help. And he does. He has gotten very good at the peppers.

Luther’s peppers
Cucumbers, cetrioli in Italian.
Soaking in brine.
Finito!

This is only one of the things we want that are not available here. I make my own ranch dressing too, because dressing isn’t a “thing” here. There are not shelves full of different salad dressings. In Italy it is oil and vinegar and that’s it.

I also make Bisquick from scratch. That’s probably weird but it is useful in some things I make. I make my own fish fry to coat fish. Buttermilk is not available here, but it’s really easy to make. I am sure there are more!
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We are still living our heat spell — it has to have been three weeks solid (maybe four) with the exception of that one day of rain. It is said to be because of an African heat dome that is stuck. Here’s the forecast for the next 7 days…and it goes on after that. 🥵. 38C is 100.4F.

I got out early this morning to show some people an apartment that my friend, who lives in Wales now, is renting. Piazza Matteotti was deserted. But cool at 8:30. I said hi to Irene at Bar Mary, and my friend Angelo at his Alimentari. Nice to see old friends. Miss them!

Finally a little about the garden. Being on the roof and in full sun the tomatoes are suffering. I got past the blossom end rot problem with extra calcium. I water twice a day. Still they look like they are miserable. I need a sun shade or something. My first year is an experiment for sure. There are quite a few tomatoes but they are small. They taste really sweet though.

I will leave you with a picture of my kumquat tree which is doing really well. She seems to really like the sun. She’s covered with sweet smelling blossoms…and the blossoms are covered with…honey bees! (You can see one bottom center).

Blessed rain!

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It is pouring outside! It has been dastardly hot and this so so refreshing. Also, as always, it has been very dry. I opened the windows. I’m upstairs where I can hear the rain pounding on the roof and on the awning. It just feels so wonderful. We have had 3 or 4 weeks of super hot, as in the upper nineties to one hundred. No break. And it is predicted to continue for two more weeks. So this wonderful storm is very welcome. It will continue for a few hours.

Dinner a couple nights ago, butter tomato sauce pasta. The Roma tomatoes are now in season. I like to make this sauce and freeze it for winter use but here is some I made today.

Ciao!