When I first moved to Italy, I had never heard of the Sanremo Music Festival (officially called the Italian Song Festival). Over the years since, we usually have watched some of it every night of the four nights it is on in February. It is the longest-running annual TV music competition in the world on a national level. It started in 1951 and was broadcast live on Rai 1, the Italian public Radio station.
It does not celebrate the singers. The songs themselves are rated along with the musical arrangements. The songs used to be sung by two different artists, each one using an individual orchestral arrangement, to illustrate the meaning of the festival as a composers’ competition. During this era of the festival, it was customary that one version of the song was performed by a native Italian artist while the other version was performed by an international guest artist. I think it would be more interesting that way, than it is now with just one singer.
I enjoyed it better this year than normal. Maybe it is growing on me? Maybe I have been here too long? Who knows! Anyway, it’s fun and over the top Italian. The songs selected in the competition are in Italian or in any regional language and the three most voted songs are awarded. You vote by calling a number on your cell phone during the song if you like it. I even voted once this year 😁. I snapped some pictures. It is a very inclusive festival. For example, they had a piece performed by a group of people with physical or mental disabilities. It was very well done . That wouldn’t go over so well in the U.S. right now I think 🤔. Here they are.
See, I told you it was over the top Italian. 😉 that guy with the long train? It was 15 meters long. ~~~~~~~~ Bathroom. They set the round shower stone and concreted the floor. I had Irma and Alesandro here this morning and it’s going to start to get disruptive tomorrow. They will need to be cutting the tiles to fit and that will be messy and loud. They will be coming upstairs where we are living and going through to the terrazzo to do this. Oy. Oh well, it must be done.
Bathroom renovation This is a short post . The eletricista was here and ran all the channels for the new lights. Made lots of noise for a few hours. Now we await the stone we ordered for the shower floor. It will hold the drain, and is round. All the other tiles will center around this one stone, so the stone must be first. 🙂 The plumbers finished all their stuff as well. We removed the old tank toilet (which I hated) and are installing a proper toilet like they do here now. The tank is inside of the wall. You can see it here in this photo. Bathrooms are built with a space for the tank but redoing an old bathroom is harder unless you could make a space. We did that closing up a skinny storage area for it.
Here is the stone for the sink countertop, still at the marble fabricator.
This is the round shower stone with the drain.
The muratore are down there now beavering away. They will be finishing the walls and floors, laying tiles, installing appliances. I will post again soon!
Umbria is a four season area, as is most of Italy. People seem to think Italy is warm in winter, especially in the south, but this isn’t true. But it’s also not terribly cold except in the mountainous north. It does snow in most of Italy but usually only a little. They had snow recently in far south Sicily. Our temperatures here can get as cold as the upper 20s at night with normal daytime temperatures in the day in the 50s. It can be gray and damp, with quite a lot of rain. I don’t like the season much but it can be very beautiful in a stark way.
Bathroom ~~~~~~~ I met with Irma yesterday to finalize all the bathroom things like under sink built-ins, shower seat, number of tiles up the walls. We still have to go pick the countertop for the sink and the circle in the shower. This last bit is a little hard to describe so you’ll have to wait to see it in the end. The plumber came and said they didn’t finish the demolition. So the muratore returned today and made a lot of dust and noise. When he was gone we were left with this. I think the plumber returns tomorrow. We’ll see…
Yesterday and today we had very high wind warnings. It boomed on the canopies out on the terrazzo. I drove to the Tuscan town of Sansepolcro where I get my hair cut. Even the VeeDub had trouble with the wind and we had to negotiate around a double trailer semi which had been knocked into the guardrail and partially jack-knifed.
I promised some photos. The first two are of the bath after the appliances and plumbing was disconnected. The next one is today after all is gone.
Now, it’s ready for the plumber who’s coming on Monday. Then I think the muratori (wall guys) will come back and smooth the walls and floors and finished the enclosure for the toilet. After all that, the pretty stuff happens 🙂. ~~~~~~~~ Our weather has been quite mild for the last couple of weeks and lots of rain. Weekend coming up. We have a few things on. Tonight we are going to our Italian family’s house for dinner. This is Vera and her husband and a Danish couple that she works for. We’ve met them before. They are wealthy and that’s hard to do in Denmark! Tomorrow, I’m working at Books for Dogs then I’ll go to the market. Sunday we are meeting American friends who live nearby for lunch at Calagrana. They are the ones that we help with the olive harvest every year. Calagrana is closed for the season, but they open now and then for a lunch or dinner and we get an email when they do. We have not been since Thanksgiving, so I am looking forward to that!
Buon Weekend! (Yes that’s really a thing they say here. Much easier than fine settimana!)
Hi all. I thought I would check in with the few interesting things we have been doing. Being winter, and pretty darn cold, we haven’t been doing too much. I have been volunteering at the Books for Dogs/Libri per i Cani shop. It’s pretty fun. I work on Saturdays, either early or late shift.
Today the bathroom renovation began. The plumber came to disconnect all the appliances. So all the sinks and shower, bidet and toilet have been unhooked. Monday the true demolition will begin. I am not sure how long this job will take. I do know Irma has received all the materials for it, so once demolished I would think they would begin installing the tiles, sinks, toilet etc. The electrician must also come. Then the plumber comes back. Maybe a couple weeks? I’ll post pictures in my next post. ~~~~~~~ On the cooking front I have made some wintery dishes. Chili, always a favorite, with borlotti beans. My favorite roast chicken from Thomas Keller of the French Laundry. So simple but so delicious. Then over the weekend I made a Kimchi Soup. Yeah, I know it’s not Italian, but I love those exotic tastes on occasion and this one pushes all the buttons. Luther thinks he doesn’t like kimchi, but when it’s used as an ingredient it is more acceptable. (He liked the soup 🙂) There are lots of discussions on the Facebook Expat groups about foreign foods. Many people are adamant that when you come to live in Italy you embrace the food. Others say they miss flavors of home and it’s perfectly ok to use them. And the third group also misses all the diverse cuisines of the world that are available in the U.S. For myself, I love Italian food, I also love comfort foods from home, and I love exotic tastes. So here is my kimchi soup in pictures 🙂
The recipe called for bok choy but that’s not found here. So I used bietole which is like chard, and very close to bok choy. This soup came together very quickly. It was bright and spicy tart and sour. Very yummy ~~~~~~~ I met with a friend, Elizabeth Wholly this morning, for a caffè. My favorite bar is Bar Mary as my long time readers know. It is in the piazza. And in summertime, it is great to sit outside with a spritz or a coffee and watch the world go by. But in the winter, they only have one pretty barren back room and mostly the tables are filled with the old men playing cards. My go-to wintertime bar is Antico bar Giardino. It is just outside the piazza on one of the main roads through town. It, too, has a lovely garden, hence the name, but it also is cozy with deep upholstered sofas and chairs, quirky tables, many different rooms, vaulted ceilings nice barriste. Coffee is good, pastries tasty, nice wines for aperitivo. They have apericena, (drinks with snacks) in the evening. They also have a warm stufa 😁.
We said farewell to our friends with a lunch on Lago Trasimeno. Our big, beautiful lake. We chose Sottovento. All seafood. A good lunch. We had storms brewing and much wind. When we left the restaurant, it was beautiful sunshine and also storm clouds.
We are now home for the foreseeable future. Time to do all those things we have been putting off. Like doctor appointments and checkups. I also have about a bazillion pieces of art that I want to frame, not to mention decide where to hang them. I bought a new cordless drill and a set of bits that I can use on these masonry walls. Hanging pictures is no easy feat here. I managed to hang a small coat rack as my first try at the drill thing. And golly! I did it!
~~~~~~ Today I met up with Irma, our architect for coffee at Vivo, a coffee, pastry, pizza, and restaurant next to the river. Big space. Nice. We are beginning our adventure to renovate our guest bathroom.
All of the bathrooms here, there are three, are — can I say horrible? Yes they are horrible. Old, dated, with many parts that no longer work. Tiny showers with plastic doors. Or worse, no shower at all, as in our main bath…just a tub and squirter which, to use, you need a set of pliers to switch the water from squirter to faucet. 😳 All have toilets with tanks up above your head which either shout at you when you flush, or you have to stand next to them to be sure they won’t keep running. Faucets that don’t work. Garish tiles. I could go on!
So off we went to visit a store with all the toilets, sinks etc. Also the tiles and stone for the walls and floor. So many choices! Actually too many. I am a person who wants to make the decisions and get it done. No looking back. So if you present me with too many, it makes me crazy. But then, there is the pleasure of looking at the beautiful Italian design. People all over the world buy Italian designed and made things. I am so lucky to live right here among them.
So, we decided on the suspended toilet. The kind where you can clean under them and you see the whole floor. They also have toilets where the seats slowly lower themselves. I have to have that! We picked brushed steel faucets, shower, etc. I also picked the color of my fixtures. I decided the walls and floors will be neutral (but with textures) and the fixtures will be the focal point. I won’t tell you the color yet…you have to be surprised!
Next we walked around the corner to a place that cuts and polishes stone for kitchens, baths, and more I’m sure. Giuseppe was the owner. All the people, artisans really, that I met were just so proud of their work. Their products. Giuseppe showed us pictures of a kitchen he did in London…a mega kitchen. It was as if he was showing us pictures of his grand children 🤣 His place was incredible.
The stones were beautiful. So many textures and hues. Marble, travertine, granite, etc. I guess he networks all over the world. Look at some of these beauties!
This one is natural stone but I could hardly believe that it was.
I was leery of the cost. I don’t want this to be a showcase bath, I just want it pleasing to look at and functional. And not cost too much. Irma assures me it is comparable in price to the manufactured stuff. I am skeptical. If it is I would be happy to have some in the bath, in combination with man-made stuff. Irma will make some more drawings and show some ideas for these different finishes.
As we walked back, we were right next to the famous Rometti Ceramics factory so we said, what the hey, let’s go in. There is history here. Many of the pieces are displayed in galleries in Milano. It is that kind of famous. And it is here, in Umbertide of all places. The modern ceramics are designed by individual designers. They are all very different. There isn’t a brand per se. The second picture below is really the closest there is to a brand. The black and white, sometimes with an additional color. Very 1930s art deco.
Then we were invited into the back room which is the factory. There were many workers smoothing the unfinished pieces, painting, glazing etc. We met some of the artisans and again, so proud of their work.
Irma and I both saw together, a bowl and urn that we loved. A rich green with a bamboo looking rim. So beautiful. We learned that some of the ceramics are inspired by haute couture in Milano. Or maybe vice versa. I wasn’t sure. We saw the beautiful green gown to which these pieces were similar. I told Luther, should he want to get me a gift, one of these would be it.
It was a productive morning. I will continue to post about it as we move forward.
