Category Archives: Travel

A walk in the fields and a road trip

Yesterday we went for a nice walk down the river and through the fields nearby. All the crops are on schedule. This first picture is of the sunflower or Girasola field before the flowers open. I will go back in a couple of weeks when they bloom. Umbertide is in the distance.

IMG_0103

The grapes are tiny versions of their future selves. Hoping for a good harvest this year!

IMG_0105

And finally the winter wheat, planted last November is ready to harvest.

IMG_0106

Tomorrow we begin our first big road trip after moving here. We are driving north. The first stop will be Udine in the Fruilli area near the Slovenian border for just one night. Onward to the wine region of Austria for 3 nights. Then we visit Budapest for 3 nights. After that we visit Bratislava in Slovakia for 2 nights. Heading back south we stop in Slovenia at Bled in the Alps for 2 nights. All these places are between 2 and 4 hours apart and they are all in different countries! We have been to all except Hungary before. Actually we visited Czechoslovakia before it split into two countries so maybe technically we didn’t visit Slovakia. In case you are wondering we have a nice couple of friends coming to house/cat sit for us. Makes my trip much better to know the boys are being looked after.

EXPO in Milano

On Saturday we left Umbertide to visit the EXPO in Milan. They call it EXPO here but it is the same as the Worlds Fair. The theme is Feed the World, all about food. I had never been to a worlds fair before so I didn’t want to miss my chance. It opened in May and closes in October. The word at first was that it wasn’t really ready to open when it did so we waited a little.

We left Saturday and returned Monday with only one full day to see the Fair. As luck would have it, it was the hottest weather so far. In the upper 90s. It was broiling. We took the train to Florence. Then we changed to the fast and super nice, Frecciarossa, or Red Arrow. There were four classes of travel from opulent to nice. We were one up from nice.

We stayed at the Spadari al Duomo right in the Centro near the cathedral. It was a lovely four star place with great service and comfy beds. They left strawberries for us…
DSC04325
You could take the subway out to the EXPO from the hotel very easily. It took around 30 minutes to get there. We left about 9:30 so got there when it was opening.

There is a main thoroughfare which is very wide and covered with giant sun screens. If they hadn’t been there you couldn’t have stood the heat. The very wideness of this space gave the impression the crowds were light.
DSC04328

But no, if you tried to go into a pavilion the lines were long for the most part – and in the sun. They were handing out umbrellas to some suffering people. The Italian pavilion had lines 2 1/2 hours long early in the day. Many others had one hour waits. We did manage to go into the Israel pavilion, the Quatar pavilion, the Slovenian pavilion and the USA pavilion. All had presentations of their foods, or how their country was helping to feed the world, or something unique about themselves. The USA had the worlds largest vertical garden. Around the back was the Food Truck Nation. Four food trucks selling BBQ, Hamburgers, Lobster Rolls etc. Israel had a very nice multi-media presentation about how, after it became a nation in the mid twentieth century, it made lush gardens in the desert. They invented drip irrigation. They produce a tremendous amount of food in a very hostile environment.

USA pavilion vertical garden.
DSC04343

Outside USA pavilion
DSC04342

Inside Quatar pavilion.
DSC04347

Outside the Slovenian pavilion.
DSC04358

Here are some random peeks at the Fair. Vietnam pavilion.
DSC04332

Kazakhstan
DSC04335

Azerbaijan
DSC04359

Italy pavilion – inside.
DSC04338

On the way back home, after changing trains in Florence, our slow, hot, local train decided to break down. We sat, sweltering for 40 minutes before they finally got it going again. The joys of Trenitalia.

Finally, here is a picture of my christmas tree which is residing for the summer on the terrace. It must be happy because it is growing!
DSC04321

Castello Bufalini, San Giustino

We have visitors for a couple of days so we thought we would visit a place nearby that is only open on Sundays. It was built in 1487 and continuously occupied by the Bufalini family until 1979 when the last family member died. They kept meticulous records of the farming operation from 1473 to 1979 which are important to historians and chronicle the activities of the estate, harvests, cattle breeding, milling and changing practices of agriculture through the centuries. They spared no expense with frescos painted on the walls and ceilings, Murano glass chandeliers, and extensive stucco decorations. Here are some pictures.

This first one is from a room called the chamber of Pagan delights.
DSC04283
This is the grand reception room.
DSC04284
Statue of the Medusa
DSC04288

Stucco decorations by artisans in Citta di Castello.
DSC04287

The famous gardens now, sadly, run-down.
DSC04294

Exterior of the castello which suffered great damage in the 1789 earthquake necessitating the addition of structural buttresses.
DSC04296

It was a marvelous day and we had lunch reservations at Calagrana. It was Frank’s (one of our guests) birthday celebration. The meal was, as always, wonderful.

My secondi – mixed grilled fish to include tuna, salmon and sea bass.
DSC04300

We also had our first experiences at the Pronto Soccorso or emergency room, here in Umbertide. Frank had scratched his cornea and it was really bothering him. We visited the PS and they flushed his eye, put numbing drops in and told him to come back Monday to see the doctor. By that afternoon he was all better. They charged him 25 Euro. Not bad!

Today is the Day of the Republic and a national holiday. Out in our piazza they have erected 3 what I would have to call pens. They have Royal Canin plastic on them. This clues us in that it must have something to do with animals. I will report back after we figure it out. Stay tuned!

Ravenna in the rain

We drove the hour and a half north to Ravenna on Friday morning. The super strada goes through the rugged Apennine mountains. It is quite the feat of engineering soaring in the air above the old Roman road. It rained steadily but as we approached the coast it really picked up. Our GPS got us into a couple of sticky situations but we finally found the Hotel Diana. It is in the old town, the people were nice, it was not luxury but comfortable.

Off we went for a beer and then to get our ticket that includes the top four sights. It was raining steadily.

FIrst up was the Battistero degli Ortodossi (O Neoniano)

DSC04244

DSC04246

DSC04248

Then we visited Capella di Sant’ Angrea but no pictures were allowed. It was really a museum. After that we let our stomach do the walking to Ca’ de’ Vén, a ennotecca not far away. Did I mention it was raining?

Inside were a number of rooms all different, most in vaulted rooms, some with beautiful ceilings seen below. We sat at long tables.

DSC04243

I had the local spaghetti type pasta similar to the Umbrian Stringozzi but much fatter. It was served with new peas and sausage in a cream sauce. Quite light and perfect for a lunch when a dinner is planned for later.

DSC04241

Luther got the chicken and rabbit with potatoes on a hot stone. They really got the chicken perfect, the rabbit was a little dry but the potatoes were perfect! The meats were flavored with rosemary and garlic. Too much food he said.

DSC04242

We left and it was raining… we visited Basilica di Sant Vitale which was breathtaking.
DSC04250

DSC04255

DSC04256

DSC04257

We retreated in the rain for showers and to recharge for dinner at L’Acciuga Osteria. Named after anchovies. And they DID have anchovies which we felt compelled to order. They came in a tin! With bread and butter. It was good but it was….anchovies. (my sister would have loved them!) They were from Spain and very expensive. We split them. Wouldn’t re-order them.
DSC04259

DSC04261

Luther had the sea bass which he loved. It was topped with a squash blossom.

DSC04262

I had the shrimp with asparagus.

DSC04263

We had a lovely local red wine. It was a San Giovesi. Then we walked back to our hotel…in the rain.

DSC04264

We had a good sleep and breakfast – checked out and headed for the last of the four main tourist sights – the Basilica di Sant Apollinare Nuovo. It was built in the 400s. Yep. Old. In fact Ravenna has a fascinating history. Now Ravenna is the capital city of the Province of Ravenna, in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. Earlier it was the capital city of the Western Roman Empire from 402 until that empire collapsed in 476. It was the port for the Roman Imperial fleet. Then it became the capital of the Kingdom of the Ostrogoths until it was re-conquered in 540 by the Eastern Roman Byzantine Empire. Afterwards, the city formed the center of the Byzantine Exarchate of Ravenna until the invasion of the Franks in 751, after which it became the seat of the Kingdom of the Lombards. To cut it short it was also variously ruled by the French, the Venetians, Germans, the Pope, etc. etc. During World War II two troops of the British 27th Lancers entered and occupied Ravenna on 5 December 1944. The town suffered very little damage.

Here are some pictures of he Basilica di Sant Apollinare Nuovo.

DSC04270 DSC04272 DSC04276 DSC04275Almost all of the churches we saw had magnificent mosaics. Beautiful. We headed back to Umbertide in another very difficult rain storm. It got so bad that the road was flooded with so many puddles we had to slow to a crawl – plus the road just outside of Ravenna and Forli was crumbling. Italians need to do something!

Near Umbertide the rain slowed and stopped. It was quite cool and cloudy though, much different than the recent weather.

Big day tomorrow… we pickup our Porsche Boxter which we ordered 5 months ago!

Urbino in the Marche

We had a lovely day trip today to Urbino. It is a World Heritage site in the Marche district just next door to Umbria on the Adriatic. It is fully walled and on the top of a formidable hill. It has a long history, of course, where it went back and forth being independent or a Papal dependency depending on when you looked. It’s most famous inhabitant was Federico da Montefeltro, Duke of Urbino from 1444 to 1482. In 1626 the city again fell to the Pope. I won’t go into further history but we visited Federico’s Ducal palace while we were there.

It took about 1 1/2 hours to get there through mountainous terrain. The highway ran parallel to the old Roman road running to the sea. A pretty little river did the work of cutting an enormous gorge making a natural route.

We parked below the town and walked up. The streets were steep and small. It is a university town with a school of design as well as a school of pharmacy. There were lots and lots of kids everywhere making for a lively scene. We went into the Duomo of Urbino which was begun on the foundation of a 6th century church in 1021. It was finished in 1604. In 1789 it was destroyed by an earthquake. It was rebuilt in Neoclassical style and finished in 1801. It is beautiful, clean and modern feeling inside with a soaring dome.

DSC04192

We entered the Ducal Palace and toured the rooms. Beautiful paintings, stone work, and especially beautiful inlay work in wood. Following are some pictures. We were there for about 2 hours. Believe it or not the next two pictures are of the magnificent inlay work entirely of wood. The perspectives are perfect. Check out the folds in the gown. Amazing work. AND it was created in the 1400s!

DSC04193

DSC04195

This is the ceiling and walls in the same room above the inlays. All the walls are inlaid in wood. It was the Duke’s study. Very beautiful

DSC04194

Luther standing in one of the gigantic fireplaces.

DSC04197

A huge reception room where the Duke did his work.

DSC04198

I loved the scene of lower Urbino viewed through a very old window with wavy glass. I thought it looked like a painting.

DSC04199

We left the palace and wandered the main Piazza. This is the student chapel; beautiful in it’s symmetry.

DSC04205

Now it was time for lunch. We had several places that we had researched but none worked out. We went to a place in the Piazza San Francesco in the center of town called Il Girarrosto. They had tables outside in the leafy, inviting square. Unfortunately we had to eat inside. It turned out to be just lovely. They made dishes of the region. We split a pasta with a local cheese that was very good. Different from Umbrian cheese. Kind of reminded me of cheddar. Then I had the grilled chicken diavalo and Luther had the beef. I went back to the facilities before we left and I was amazed at the large cooking fireplace that I had to pass on the way. So now I saw where our grilled meats were prepared. Here are two pictures. The top one is the fireplace. See the glowing coals at the back? It has an electric rotisserie and grilling racks over the coals they pull from the back. Other picture was taken outside. The weather was beautiful.

DSC04203 DSC04204

We drove back via a different route. It went north of the one we’d come over on through a lovely verdant valley and up up up into the mountains via a road full of switchbacks. There was hardly any traffic. We never came up on another car.

DSC04209 DSC04211

It came out in San Guistino north of Umbertide by about 20 miles or so. I liked that route better mainly because the southerly route is the main road. It is still mostly a two lane road and full of trucks all headed for the coast. A fun outing.

My sister’s visit

Well, all things must come to an end. My sister has flown away home. She brought the best weather with her and we enjoyed it completely. Here is a brief recap.

On Monday we went to Gubbio and walked our socks off. It is very hilly.
DSC04149

DSC04150

This was my appetizer at lunch at Ristorante Taverna del Lupo. It was a truffled egg. Looked better than it tasted.

DSC04153

DSC04154

Next day, Tuesday we were off to the Montefalco wine region. First stop Di Filippo winery. It is a bio-winery so they use no chemicals, let the geese free in the vineyards to help fertilize, and even cultivate with horses.

DSC04155

DSC04156

DSC04158

Lunch was in Montefalco at Locanda del Teatro. A new place for me right in the town square. They have a lovely terrace out back where we ate. I tried out the pasta with tiny, wild asparagus and fresh fava beans. Yum! and it was as good as this picture looks.

DSC04160

Bye Cindy and Bill! We really loved that you came to see us in our “native habitat” as you say.

Trip to England

I know that this blog is supposed to be about our move to Italy so some of you may not be interested in our travels. Others may be and I know some of my friends and my sister will probably like to hear about them so I am posting this first long-ish trip report. You can skip it if you are not interested of course!!

We decided to try out RyanAir, the low cost European airline and see how it is. It flies on a limited basis in and out of Perugia near us. We flew from there into Stansted (near London) Monday, March 16. And home on the following Sunday. All in all it made a good impression. Left on time, returned on time. Packed flights though so not very comfortable but for only two hours not a real problem.

I had an odd reaction to our return. Somehow, it seemed very strange to be flying back to Italy from England. It was a foreign vacation after all, and all my life our return was to Virginia. It was all wrong somehow. But now that I’m back all is back to normal. Italy is again home.

In England we had rented a National Trust cottage in East Anglea not far from the airport. It has been twelve years since we visited England! We had never been to this part of The country before. We drove from Stansted to Stoke by Nayland in Suffolk. We stopped in Great Dunmow for lunch. Then we shopped for wine and food and headed onward. We arrived about 3:30.

First pub. Fish and chips for Luther, burger for me. Good.
pub1

DSC03943

DSC03942

The cottage is called Thorington Lodge. It was very well appointed with everything one would wish for. Two bedrooms, nice bath and kitchen, living room with wood stove and TV. The cottage was attached to Thoringron Hall, the much larger big house. It was set in grounds that included a meadow full of daffodils. So pretty. The weather was cold and gray all week until Friday when it finally got sunny and warmer. Here are notes I took, what we did, where we ate, and some pictures.

Thorington Hall and the daffodils…
daffodils_thorington_hall1

thorington_hall

Tuesday 3/17 we drove to Norwich about 60 miles away to see the Cathedral. We took a lovely tour with a nice man who was very knowledgable and interesting. We ate lunch at The Murderer’s pub. We shopped in Waitrose Supermarket for some things I wanted to take back with me that I can’t get in Italy. Then we drove to Bury St Edmund where we visited the Cathedral there (it was a cathedral kind of day!). Found an IPA festival at the Corn Market pub. They were featuring Devils Backbone IPA from Virginia. Had to have one! Dinner was at the Crown in Stoke by Nayland near the cottage. It was only OK.

Norwich cathedral.
norwich_cath4

norwich_cath5

norwich_cath3

norwich_cath2

Norwich cathedral green man.
norwich_cath_greenman

Norwich cloister.
norwich_cath_cloister

Murderers pub.
pub2

pub2a

Bury St. Edmund cathedral and gardens.
Bury_St_Edmund_cath_gardens

Bury_St_Edmund_cath1

Bury_St_Edmund_cath2

Bury_St_Edmund_cath3

Devils Backbone beer in Bury St. Edmund in the Corn Market pub.

DB_Beer

Luther_DB_beer

pub3

pub3b

Wednesday 3/18 we vsited Ickworth house grounds. Not much open before Easter around here. We took a nice walk. The sheep were lambing. Boy were they cute. Toured the Italian Garden around the house. Then we drove to Lavenham for lunch at the recommended Angel hotel. It was our best meal of the trip. We toured the Guildhall built in the 1300s. It is a beautiful town with more listed houses than anywhere else in the Norfolk and Suffolk area. We also visited the Airmen’s bar for a beer. This is where the British and American airmen hung during the war. This part of England is chock full of airfields from the war because it’s pretty flat and near continental Europe. We ate dinner in.

Ickworth house and grounds.
ickworth_gardens

ickworth_stumpery

ickworth

Luther by the squint; a window in the church on the Ickworth grounds.
Luther_by_the_squint

Lambs. This one had twins. One was trying to stand, the second was being licked by the ewe.
lambs_just_born

lambs1

lambs3

lambs5

lambs6

Lavenham.
lavenham_guildhall

lavenham

Thursday 3/19 we drove to Snape. It is said by Wikipedia that JK Rawlings named Severus Snape from this town name. Near it was Snape Maltings. I guess it was a malting factory but they are making it into an arts center, with shopping, and condos. We took about a 3 mile walk. It was cold! Afterwards we looked in the shops. There was one housewares shop where I could have gone wild had I a way to bring stuff back. Next we drove to the seashore town of Aldeburgh with lunch at the recommended Lighthouse restaurant which was good. After lunch we drove to see Sutton Hoo. It is an ancient angles and Saxon settlement and burial mounds. We ate dinner in.

Snape and our walk with Snape Malting in the distance.
snape

snape_malting_walk1

snape_malting_walk2

Friday 3/20 we drove to Ely to see the cathedral. The drive along pretty country lanes to Clare which was written up in our book was beautiful. I should mention there are more thatch-roofed houses here than anywhere I’ve been in England. I didn’t get a picture but they had really pretty decoratively carved crowns at the roof peeks. Lunch was at the Bell in Clare. We visited the 700 year old village church which Henry VIII attended with Catherine of Aragone. Dinner was at the Angel at Stoke by Nayland. Only OK.

Ely cathedral.
ely_cath2

ely_cath3

ely_cath4

ely_cath1

Ely town. Our only sunny day.
Ely

Saturday 3/21 left Thorington Lodge and headed for Stansted for early return flight home on Sunday. Nice trip. Missed my cats!

Storms! And a trip

They call this Mimosa and it is everywhere right now. I guess a very early bloomer. The leaves look like the mimosa I know from the states but the flowers DEFINATELY not. They are like little yellow puffballs.

DSC03924

We also visited an old church in a town called San Guistino. We had aimed to visit the castle there but it is open only on weekends. It purportedly has a gorgeous garden which would be better visited in the spring. We will return. Meanwhile I took a picture in the Church crypt. It was built in the 7th century and completely unlit except for candles.

DSC03925

I just finished reading a book called “The Consul” written by Walter Orebaugh. He was a diplomat in France in WWII and was captured by the Facists in Monaco and spent 2 years in Italy, first as a prisoner and then fighting with the Partisans in the mountains very near where we now live. He had a harrowing escape down the coast. The first house he mentioned in the book where the partisan group he was with were headquartered was called San Faustino. I googled and found that it is now a resort. I found it on a map and we went on an exciting trip trying to find it. We were on all sorts of roads. Mostly gravel through very mountainous terrain. We did in the end find it. The resort is closed for the winter but it is unmistakably the same house as there is a picture in the book and the bell tower is the same. I could easily imagine the Partisani in these remote, forbiding mountains. Here is a picture. We will have to go back in the summer.

DSC03929

On Thursday we headed out to class in Citta di Castello. We got almost to our exit and came to a stop on the superstrada. It was closed and everyone was detoured off. It was a stormy morning with really strong, gale force winds and rain or snow depending on where you were. We ended up only five minutes late but the roaring wind blew around the building. There was a lot of damage and a number of people killed and injured throughout central and northern italy. Hence the closing of the road.

On Friday we had a planned trip to a town called Forli (accent on the i so emphasis on the last syllable). It was about 100 kilometers north near the Adriatic coast. Along the way we saw numerous trees down and the big highway signs either blown down or folded in half by the winds. I guess that was the reason for the closing. The reason for the trip was an art exhibit at the Musei San Domnico. [website] The museum was in a former convent and lovely in it’s own right. The show was the art of Giovanni Boldini. He was an artist during the Belle Epoche in the late 1800s and early 1900s which was a dynamic period. He started out in Florence Italy but eventually moved to Paris where it was all happening. He had money so was not a starving artist. He had epic skills and his works are captivating. He mostly did portraits of beautiful women in the most amazing dresses. All of the women were so beautiful! Hard to imagine. He is not well known but should be. I could stand looking at some of the pictures for hours. He painted in impressionistic and realistic regimens and conveyed the magnificence of the gowns the women wore with amazing brush-work. Minimalist but when you stood back the dresses shimmered with gold, sequins, lace and satin. Amazing!

DSC03931

After the show we went to lunch at Salumé which was recommended in our Slow Food book. It was on a nice Piazza not too far away. It was very small. In summer there would be outside tables. The wait staff and chef were very nice. Both very young and enthusiastic. We had a stuffed cuttlefish antipasti with a pea purée to start. Then assorted pastas. Mine had squid with big rigatoni type pasta. Luther got classic ragu. Susan and Gary got pork cheeks with roasted cauliflower in an unusual green, leaf shaped pasta from Liguria actually called Olive Leaves. Very yummy. The chef and waiter stayed and talked to us for quite a while. They are very proud of their place. And they should be. Not that most tourists will go to Forli but if you do, try Salumé.

After lunch we visited Eataly. It is a store that celebrates Italian Food and Wine with branches worldwide and it just opened a store in…Forli(!) in February. It is right on the main piazza. It is four floors of all Italian goods, mostly food. A lot of fun and we made a few purchases.

Forli is definitely not a tourist destination but it was actually much nicer than I had imagined. Very walkable, lots of trees so summer must be lovely there. It was heavily bombed in the war by the Germans. Some of the city was able to be restored. We stayed at the Hotel Michaelangelo which was nice enough. Walkable to most sights. If there is another good show at the gallery I would go back for sure.

Forli

DSC03936

DSC03934

DSC03932

Follow up

So today we returned to the Dipartimento di Salute to finalize our health insurance. We could not ‘jump the line’ as we thought but this day was far calmer with fewer people waiting. After only about 40 minutes we went in to see LL.

What a surprise! She was quite nice to us. But she really opened up when we began discussing restaurants that we had been to. I guess food is a subject close to her heart 🙂 given her girth! We were given cards and assigned a doctor. We asked for the one Susan and Gary have. The only glitch is that our Permissi run out in June so it is only good until June. We have to go start up our Permissi process again and then they will extend it until the end of the year. Our doctor has hours and you just drop in. I’ll let Luther go first so I see how it goes.

On Sunday we drove to Citta della Pieve. It is very close to the Tuscan border and is a very pretty hill town. I was impressed that it was a really active place with lots of people about. Nice bars and outside spaces. Here is one of the pretty streets.

DSC03797

We found one of the restaurants that we had read about called Zafferanno Pievese.

DSC03804

The menu had a surprise on it. Hamburger!

DSC03799

But WOW was it expensive. Note the price above. I guess since it was made from the famous Chianina beef with bernese sauce and to top it off the Famous Onions of Cannara. Perhaps it was worth the price. I resisted ordering it. Maybe if we go back. Below are our two appetizers. They were good but a lot of food. I did not care for my primi but maybe it was just the ingredients. Luther liked his steak.

DSC03801

DSC03802

It was a fun day!

November 1st

Well, here it is November already. Yesterday day on the way to the bank we passed a bar with two carved pumpkins. Last night out on the piazza the shops were being visited by lots of little witches and caped crusaders! So Halloween is alive and well in Italy!

It has gotten pretty chilly lately so we’ve been using the stuffa. That’s the little stove in the apartment. You load it up with pellets of wood and it feeds them into the hopper slowly.

image

What have we been doing… Well on Thursday we took a trip to Norcia. We also visited a small town called Sellano on the way. It was a place where I had fallen in love with a house before we came over. It is a lovely little town. Very nicely kept. BUT it is devilishly hard to get to. I am glad I gave it a miss.

Norcia is a really nice little town that is known for it’s cured meats, truffles, lentils and faro. We walked about and visited a couple of churches, went into some shops and bought some of the specialties and then had lunch! Here are some photos, first of the town, then lunch.

image

image

image

image

image

The restaurant was called la Cenoloco. They were very proud that they used only local foods from just around Norcia. It was pretty quirky and very tiny. Enjoyed the experience.

Apartmment
I dropped by the apartment after five or six days. They have cleaned up most of the trash and swept the floors in the bedrooms and hall. Probably preparing to refinish the floors. They have to do that in two steps. First the back of the house while it’s empty. Then move everything in the living room back to the back and paint and finish the floors in there. Other than the lights it is mostly done now. Here are a few pictures that don’t really tell you much. Shows the new paint and cleaned up rooms.

image

image

image

image

image