Category Archives: Wine and wineries

Another day, another winery and lunch :-)

So Luther decreed that we had to go buy some more wine. He chose a place or two down in the Sagrantino wine district. It takes about 45 minutes to get there from our house. The day was fine. We found the first winery called Particaia which means plough. When we exited the car we were assailed with the overpowering odor of the new harvest of crushed grapes. The older gentleman who met us at the door of the office was super nice. He took us to the big building to see the vats with the piles of grape peels and juice.

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Then we walked up to the tasting room where he showed us the previous years harvest aging in French oak.

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We tasted three wines and bought a couple of cases. The old gentleman turned out to be the owner and vintner! He was super welcoming and I have to say, his property is beautiful.

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They had a dog. His name was Flick. He reminded my of my dog growing up, Cricket.

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We went to one more winery. They were not as welcoming. In fact they pointedly looked at their watch when we arrived at 12:15. I guess lunch was getting near and they didn’t want us hanging around.

Next came the really big adventure. We were looking for a restaurant called Ristorante 4 Piedi & 8.5 Pollici. It means the restaurant of the 4 feet and 8 1/2 thumbs. I have no idea why they call it that. We had a map from the internet. We tried to use the GPS but it didn’t recognize the street. We drove up to a small hill town but we knew that was wrong so went back to Bastardo. Yes it’s really called that! It is an unattractive town with little to recommend it. The review we read said the restaurant was hard to find. Boy were they right! They said it was in a strip mall. Well after driving slowly around the streets and asking two people we finally found it behind some big tents and in back of a big supermarket. There were no signs for it anywhere. Typically Italian.

It is a quirky place. Strangely decorated. The people were friendly and welcoming. There is no menu. They come out and recite what they have. We chose the Antipasti to share and a pasta. Hand made Strangozzi pasta (local specialty) with onions and ham. The Antipasti was a multi-course affair. Here are pictures and descriptions. It was a great lunch.

Started with a plate of ham, mortadella, mozarella, a grilled mushroom which was spicy and a round of bread with melted cheese inside. I didn’t take a picture of that plate. Next were slices of pecorino cheese with two little dishes, one home-made applesauce and the other a conserve of something I couldn’t place. They both paired with the cheese nicely.

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Next was a hot plate with melted cheese over a bread.

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Decor included big, hand drawn figures. This one, Captain Hook.

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Wonderful faro with vegetables. SO good!

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Finally the home made pasta.

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Today I didn’t go to the apartment. I decided to let them make a little more progress and go tomorrow. Pictures to follow.

Wine tasting and Montefalco lunch

Thursday. Nice summer day. Getting warmer after weeks of cool weather.

Today we planned to visit a winery and to go to a restaurant in Montefalco. The restaurant is called L’Alchemiste. We had been there on our Umbria trip with the Gang o Six about 3 years ago. Susan and Gary had not been there yet so we invited them to come too.

We went to a winery that Luther picked out on the road to Montefalco. It was quite a ways off of the highway on a long dirt driveway. The name of it is Milziade Antano Fattoria Colleallodole. Quite a mouthful. They specialize in Sagrantino wines. These are big reds and an interesting fact is that this grape grows on only 250 acres in the entire world! And it is in only 3 towns in this area.

We tasted a white, a rose and 4 reds. They progressed from an extremely tannic young Sagrantino through to an aged and lovely DOCG wine. These were pretty expensive wines as Italian wines go. Here are some pictures of the winery (to include tomatoes and a demi-john outside and then inside with the wines.

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We drove from there to Montefalco and walked up into the pretty hill town. It isn’t very big and centers around a pretty central piazza where they were ambitiously setting up bleachers and a stage for a big concert.

We ate outside and it was pleasant. The food is not your predictable Italian food. We had squash blossoms stuffed with ricotta on sliced pears to share among the four of us. Next most of us had a melted cheese with radicchio wrapped in crisp phyllo. When you cut it the cheese oozed out onto the plate. After that we all had pastas. Susan and I had the house lasagna. Oh my! It was exquisite. It was vegetarian. Mushrooms came through in the smooth bechamel and it had no pasta in it. Rather it had crepes on top. Here are pictures:

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Looks like tonight they are putting on a play in Umbertide in the piazza. Should be interesting. Here is the stage in progress from our window (sorry about the screen).

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