Musings

I recently read a post by a British couple who moved from the south coast of England to Languedoc in France for their retirement. They started out by asking themselves why couldn’t we have done all this in England? Why did we have to move to France? The south of England has no shortage of beauty, they said. There was a place to grow vegetables, they said. Access to beaches and the New Forest nearby, but they retired to France. Why do people up stakes and change countries to retire?

Well, this made me think. Yes, you can have a garden and enjoy the scenery in your home country, but somehow you choose to move to another country. I love my state of Virginia. I had all I wanted there. But I didn’t have much adventure. Everything was normal, hum drum, expected. And the pace of life, even in retirement was not tranquil. There was little stimulation. The decision to move was more a wish for new horizons. New things to see and learn. A whole different language! And yes one can have almost the same things here as at home, if one would want. But suddenly, in new surroundings I was encouraged to try so many new things. Places to see and visit, foods to make and try, restaurants to discover.

I have been here 11.5 years, so now, most things are “normal” to me. But I remember the time when going to the grocery store was a major undertaking. Deciphering the labels, figuring out that all the meats are completely different cuts, remembering to weigh all your produce, figuring out that eggs aren’t refrigerated here and finding they are on a shelf, seeing the types of flour nothing like home, figuring out the Italian equivalent of baking powder and soda. Every. Single. Thing. Was completely different. Going to the post office 😳. Getting all the permits you need to be able to live here. Going to the doctor. The pharmacy. All of the things you take for granted in the U.S. are now huge adventures, or obstacles, depending on how you look at it.

Everyone is not cut out for a move to Italy. People need to adopt a different reality to adapt here. Really, it’s true. Most people have heard everything is slower in Italy but until you’re trying to get something done here you don’t really understand. They calculate their worth differently. It’s not money that makes you rich, it is friends, family, connections, favors owed. So completely different from the U.S. where the dollar is king and the bottom line, your worth. It takes a bit of getting used to. You cannot approach your builder and offer more money to hurry up the renovation. That won’t work. They just, don’t, care.

I read a lot of the Facebook groups for people who move to Italy. Digital Nomads, Elective Residency Visa holders, students, repatriating Italians… The reasons to move are different for us all. Many come because the cost of living is half of the U.S. (except in the big cities); some come because the quality of life is better; some come for the quality of the food, which is less processed and cleaner; some come for the slower pace. Some, recently, are moving to flee the political situation in the U.S. Some come because they are descendants of Italians who immigrated and they feel the pull to return to their roots. Whatever the reason, many of us choose to relocate.

I know why I “upped stakes” and moved to Italy. It was for the stimulation and adventures. Now we are getting older and slowing down but we still plan four or five big trips a year. And more short ones. We don’t do as much around our area as before, maybe because it is familiar now. Who knows! But we still enjoy the life here.

Market day

The winter market is upon us. I was supposed to work at Books for Dogs on Saturday but it was so slow they sent me home. This gave me time to shop. We were, and still are, in a very cold, damp, dark and foggy time. It has been six, long days with a break on Monday no sun, but no fog. I have been hiding inside. Many friends around here who all live up in the mountains surrounding us are above the clouds that blanket the valley. They report bright sunshine and warmth. Envy, envy, envy.

I lucked out and found turnips with beautiful fresh turnip green tops. Not common here. I’m pretty sure people grow them because Vera once brought me some from her mother-in-law’s garden. Somehow they don’t end up in the market or grocery. Who knows why? 🤷🏻‍♀️ I love the spiciness of the turnip greens and cooked with pancetta, garlic and pepper flakes it is perfect as a pasta sauce, so that’s what we had for dinner!

This is cuisine povera. Poor people’s cooking. The pasta I used was around €1 for the packet and I used 1/3 = 30 cents The pancetta was one quarter of a two pack which was €2.95. = 90 cents. The turnip greens were a throw away so they were essentially free. Then there was a sprinkle of pepper flakes, and two garlic cloves, some olive oil and a sprinkle of pecorino romana cheese at the end. Negligible amount, maybe 50 cents. So we had two bowls of pasta with left over for my lunch for about €1.80 or about $2.10. AND…it was delizioso!

I grew up Southern. All my aunts cooked southern style. Luther’s too. Turnip greens were never wasted but they would never, ever make a pasta. That’s just too Italian. It’s nice to find nearly the same preparation they used to cook the greens here, but used in pasta dishes. Small world. Buon appetito!

Christmas lunch with good friends

Sunday lunch with good friends. We have a group of friends – all Americans. They all live south of us. Two live in Spello. One between Spello and Assisi on Monte Subasio. And one in Foligno. These places are all very near to each other. We are about 45 minutes north of them. I wish we were closer. We get together every month or two for a meal at one of our homes or an outing to a good restaurant.

i wanted us all to be together for a time during the Christmas season. I decided to host. Normally I plan and make the meal but this time I thought a potluck would be fun. I provided the two entrees and the panettone dessert. They brought munchies to start and two sides. Although one turned out to be a yummy soup. A little shuffling ensued so we had a first course of soup, then a salad and the mains. It was a very fun afternoon. The fog lifted for a time and the sun shone but then it rolled back in just in time to make their drives home difficult. Here are photos. Some of them mine, some by Roselyne and Steve.

Centerpiece from local florist
I made baskets and filled them with chocolate as gifts
The set table
Counter where I was going to put the food.
Clementines which I forgot to put out
One main, poached salmon with a cucumber dill sauce.
Roast beef sliced thin with shaved Parmesan and horseradish mustard sauce.
Doug finishing up his salad
The finished product.
The panettone. We ordered a week ago at our local bakery and picked up this week. It is pistacchio and a boozy berry or grape. So fresh and delicious. A world apart from a store bought panettone.
All of us except Steve.

We have no other official plans for the season so this was our big celebration. We do have friends who we may have lunch with after Christmas. And I may ask some others over. We are planning to move house from upstairs to downstairs for a couple months to use the stufa to supplement the heat. But first the Christmas tree needs to undecorated and returned to the terrace. Ciao for now!

UNESCO

This week Italian food was designated a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, becoming the first national culinary tradition in the world to receive such recognition in its entirety. Exciting news.

Here are some fun statistics I read. Italian consumers eat 30 billion plates of pasta annually, drink 56 billion cups of coffee, and consume almost 1 billion kilos of baked goods and sweets. Pasta remains an identity symbol, consumed at 23.3 kg per capita—the highest figure worldwide.

Here are some food pictures from my collection from different regions. Hope you enjoy seeing them.

Caccio e pepe made the traditional way. – Rome
Caccio e pepe – Rome
Fave e chicoria – Puglia Salento
Spaghetti con vongole – Amalfi coast
Risotto con piselli- Milan
Pizza – Naples

Orecchiette rapini – Bari

A few pictures to whet your appetite. All “Italian food” is regional. You won’t get any one of these dishes in any other region. It is important to know the foods of where you are and also the seasonal aspect. For instance, you can’t make Orecchiette rapini in the summer. It is a fall/winter dish.

Mangia, mangia! Buon appetito!

Vineria del Carmine

Today was a very unusual Tuesday. My good friend Elizabeth, who is very well connected around these parts, invited me to join her at a tasting and luncheon at Vineria Del Carmine. Elizabeth is partner in a business called Altabella an Italian Villa vacation rental and Umbrian experience. She has lived here more than twenty years.

The event today was for restauranteurs and people who work in tourism in the Upper Tiber valley. Elizabeth was going and found she could invite someone else. We have been friends for a number of years and she appreciates this blog as promoting this area and tourism around here. So she asked me to join her! I happily accepted.

The tasting room had two long tables set for the event. There would be three separate lunches/tastings. At 12:00, 2:00 and 4:00. The table filled with many people. We were at one end of the table so only were near a few people. They brought three wines to taste during the lunch. A Trebbiano Spoletino (white), a rosato (rosè) made from Merlot and a big red called il Campanile made from Sangiovese and Merlot. All were very nice. We had a small lunch. They make their own very thin bread sticks and two dipping sauces with which we began. They also had delicious bread and their own olive oil. Then we had a nice small main from which we could choose — a polenta with a delicious cheese sauce or pork belly. We had the polenta. Finally a nice dessert which had a LOT going on. From crumbled chocolate cookies, dots of caramel, a panna cotta ring, passion fruit and blackberries. Very nice. Here are pictures with captions. The first two are the tables.

The polenta with the cheese sauce.
The dolce.
Across from the winery is an an abandoned church..

I really had a nice time. It was great to spend time with Elizabeth. Thanks Elizabeth for the invite!

L’immacolata

Today was l’immacolata, the feast of the immaculate conception. It is a national holiday. I wrote about it in another post a while ago. The weather was not as cold as usual. It was another piazza filling event with loud Europop music blasting but also a children’s choir which was nice. Then, the big event, the tree was lit signifying the beginning of the Christmas season. I shared the event with our new American neighbors, Don and Sarah. They kindly gave me a ride. A few pictures.

The tree!
The crowd.
For the kiddos.
One of my favorite shops.
The illuminated city.

And so it begins. Enjoy the season!

Thanksgiving – 2025

Hey everyone. We had a great day with eight of our good friends. We all went to Calagrana for our Thanksgiving feast as always. This has become a tradition for this group. The story is kind of fun. Gary and Susan treat the meal, Luther and I treat the wine. Here is the story…

Once upon a time, twelve years ago, Susan wanted to have a Thanksgiving feast for her Italian friends. But her oven was small and she had no cooking skills. So she contacted Eli of Calagrana fame. She was happy to cook her turkey. But wait…she was British and had no idea how to cook a whole turkey. Seems only Americans cook whole turkeys. As luck would have it, Eli’s sister lived in Philadelphia and they consulted through the night to cook this (enormous) turkey.

At this time Susan and Gary hosted the feast in their home so they picked up the turkey and some appetizers and served them at home. They did this for a couple of years. Then Susan and Eli conspired to do the meal in Eli and Albi’s house. We were guests there and the turkey was roasted. By now, Eli was a pro at cooking an entire turkey, and because it was popular, even with the others around here, it morphed into a yearly feast in the restaurant with them taking reservations. They always have a full house. It is popular. So that is how our tradition began.

First turkey. 2014.
Second turkey. 2015.

Our group is about 50/50 Italian/American. All of the Italians are “all in” for the feast. They have embraced it. It’s so nice to share traditions with our Italian friends. I will say, some really couldn’t embrace the concept of having all the food on one plate…you know…actually touching 😳. And gasp! There were no individual courses like they do here. But this group, have embraced it and all are just fine…especially our most enthusiastic Italian friend, Fabio 🙂 He exclaimed the first year he came, “why do you only do this once a year!?!?”

Here is the 2025 feast in pictures. Captions have descriptions.

Our table.
Antipasto. Well, we are in Italy so needs be multiple courses. These bites were delicious.
Primi. Amazing dish. There was a flaky crust. Inside was melty cheese and pumpkin bits. Underneath, melted Gorgonzola sauce. On top prosciutto. Yum!
The star of the show. A 16 kilogram turkey (35.25 pounds)
Turkey and…wait…Yorkshire pudding 🤔 ?! The chef is British, what can I say 🤷🏻‍♀️
Dolce. Vanilla panna cotta with apple compote and cinnamon biscotti. So scrumptious you had to eat it even when you were full!

Hopefully we can continue this tradition for a bunch more years. I hope you all had a lovely day too! Happy Thanksgiving!

Observations

One thing I forgot to mention was that my sister and I planned our next vacation together. We booked a seven night river cruise on the Rhône River in France. We have not done a river cruise. I have done ocean cruises and a barge trip on the French canals but never a river trip. Should be fun!
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So, I had my second cataract removed last week. Glad to get that last one done. I dealt with blurry vision but it has subsided. I now have perfect vision. First time since I was in my 20s. I always feel like I’m forgetting something without my glasses!

I’ve been doing my Saturday shifts at Books for Dogs. Always fun because you meet so many people. I’m starting to recognize our regulars as well. On my walk there I passed the on-going construction between our round church, named Collegiata, and the Centro Storico. Big changes in our traffic patterns. One thing I would like to see are more benches in that area. I don’t get why they have so few. The old men who populate so many Italian villages love to sit on them, the more central the better. It’s a sight I always love to see. Here are some of the (still) work zones and new public spaces, intersections, streets and roundabouts.

Approaching Via Roma
The new road going from Via Garibaldi to Via Roma. Now it is behind the church.
New intersection. This is where it used to split into two one way streets. Now it is two way.
New roundabout will go here at the beginning of Via Roma.
The new large open space now connects the Collegiata to the Centro Storico. It’s nice

I was replying to someone on a Facebook group I follow today. They want to move to Italy with two young children. The husband is an Italian citizen which allows him to come and bring his family. That’s something you don’t often see, young families coming here mainly because the immigration process doesn’t seem have a path to legally live here for young people. There are a couple Visas but they are very difficult to get.

Anyway, this family has chosen a town in nearby Lazio. A nice city of about 60,000 which has all you’d need and is only an hour from Rome by train. They want to put their kids into an International School in this town. I disagree with this so I wrote to him. This is what I said:

I recommend that you enroll your children into Italian public school in your town for a number of good reasons. They are young, they will absorb the language instantly. They are like a sponge now. What a gift to give to them, to be bi-lingual. They will make friends right in your neighborhood. They will join clubs and sports. They will have lifelong friends. Italians don’t move around like Americans do. They go to kindergarten, primary, middle and high school together; they come of age, marry and have families alongside all their friends; finally they grow old together. Maybe your children won’t decide to remain, but if they ever come back in later life they will be embraced like the family they are.

A second, even more important benefit, I think, is that you and your wife will also become entwined in your communities. You’ll be accepted faster. You’ll join the Italians in their errands, celebrations, and local events.

if you put the kids into an international school they won’t have all these benefits. You won’t become known and a part of the community of Italians. You’ll be set apart from real Italian life. Aloof. Why move to Italy and live in a bubble?

This all brings me back to the benches. In Umbertide. Those kids who grow old together here will need a place to gather. A bench.🥰 In the Centro.

Photo by my friend Jennifer Leslie. As an aside, I have never met an Italian who didn’t love to have his or her picture taken.

The weather has still been very pretty but this week, on Friday, we say goodbye to autumn. Cold and rain is setting in. 🌧️ 🥶

Back home in beautiful Italia.

I arrived back home yesterday. I had a lovely week with my sister. She is doing well after her treatment. Getting stronger every day.

The drive from Dulles to Wintergreen wasn’t too bad. Both there and back were on Sundays so that helped. Also government shutdowns always make traffic in the DC area light. I have lived through a few. There were a lot of reports of delayed flights because the air traffic controllers were not coming in. I don’t blame them. They aren’t getting paid. But that didn’t affect either of my flights. 

I left the Hyatt and drove to Total Wine, a big wine shop, to buy some wine to share. When I got close to Wintergreen I stopped at the last, good grocery to buy stuff for the dinner I was making and the many things I wanted to take home. I had packed only one outfit. Jeans and a sweatshirt. I had ordered a bunch of clothes from Amazon to be delivered to my sister.

She lives at 3,400 feet up on a mountain. I was stunned at the colors along the road up the mountain. The pictures don’t do the color justice unfortunately.

I had a number of things to accomplish during my week. One was to get a flu shot and a Covid vaccine shot. Why not, right? I also had a list for the grocery store. And I had 3 things to mail for a friend. Since the tariffs were instated you can’t mail any packages from Italy to the U.S. Last, Luther wanted a bottle of bourbon. Over the course of the week I got all this done.

The autumn color in the mountains of Virginia is something I’ve missed. I hit it right at peak on this trip. It was glorious. Like driving in golden tunnels. The forests are very different in Virginia compared to Italy. Wintergreen is a four season resort which sprawls up the mountains and along the tops. There is skiing and the Appalachian Trail goes through it. The first image is of the mountain called Three Ridges.

I also watched Monday night football and three of the World Series games. I’m not a huge sports fan but it was something we three could watch and still talk during the games. We cooked together each night. The weather was very brisk. In the 30s F most days with blustery winds. We took some walks. We visited Waynesboro which is over the mountain from her. It is a typical country town. We shopped in a shop run by Mennonites called The Cheese Shop. Much more than cheese. Lots of good stuff. I had forgotten how they go nuts for Halloween in the U.S. I only took one picture but there were some other amazing displays. This guy did not want any vampires around! The wreath is entirely of garlic.

On Friday we visited Early Mountain Vineyards where they have a restaurant. It is about 1.5 hours from their house. We had a lovely lunch and drove back. The GPS directed us to use the Blue Ridge Parkway to get back home. We were fine with that and we got to take some amazing photos on the way. This particular pine is very famous. Bill took this photo.

Sunday I left their house and drove back to Dulles which was uneventful. Then I checked in and went through security which had no lines. Nice. I hit the Polaris lounge and had lunch and a wine and then sat and enjoyed myself for the two hours I had to wait. 

Now I am home. The car I hired picked me up. Nice young man from Brazil. He is married to an Italian. While on the drive home, I was struck by how drab the colors are here. Just nothing like the brilliance of the leaves on the U.S. east coast. Italy has its other charms and a beauty of its own, but Virginia is where I was born and lived so I have a special spot for it in my heart. ❤️ I’m tired and happy to be home. I was pretty proud of myself that I negotiated all the things one must negotiate when traveling internationally. I had been worried. I guess I’m not as decrepit as I thought! 😁

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Back to everyday life for a while. Lots of laundry to do. It is also time to begin closing up the terrace for the winter. I need to put all the cushions and the outdoor rug inside. Then all the plants must be cut back and disposed of. It is a little sad. Cycle of life. Happily, the holidays are ahead to look forward to. Umbertide already has all its lights up but not yet illuminated.

Fino alla prossima volta, ciao.

First leg of USA trip…not without drama!

First step of the trip finished. I have a half full suitcase. It has several gifts in it and I wanted them to stay safe. Also some packages to mail for a friend. So I packed the entire thing in one half of the case. I’ll fill the other side with things I bought or will buy. My first step was to catch my hired car to Roma. 

Silvia picked me up in a nice, shiny, black BMW. A quick and smooth trip. Arrived at the Hilton Rome Airport hotel in less than 2.5 hours. We talked the whole way. She and her husband own the car service and have four cars. They each drive two cars and they have two employees who drive the other two. She has a ten year old daughter. They do a lot of work for the upscale hotel in our area, Reschio. Their season slows in November and they generally vacation in January or February. She dropped me right at the hotel, got my suitcase out of the trunk and gave me a double kiss goodbye. Only in Italy would your hired car driver kiss you goodbye. 😁

So now I’m happily checked into the hotel, which is HUGE by the way. I ordered room service. Stuck with a salad of melon, burrata, and prosciutto. I figured they couldn’t mess that up too much. I also got a bottle of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Very nice white.
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Yes, well then. Sunday started out nicely. I got up showered, put everything back in the suitcase and checked out. Found the skywalk to the airport. It had three people mover walkways, one of which was not working. Pretty long walk. Found the check in, last section at the far end of terminal 3, and then went through security. Walked to gates E. Another long walk. Finally found the Polaris Lounge. It was packed! After a while I found a seat. Got a yogurt. And water. Later I got a cappuccino and a small pastry. This is when I left the lounge. I couldn’t believe there was a line waiting to get in. I guess they must meter people in if it’s too full.

Left and went to my gate, which was another long walk and an elevator and then a train. The train went to a new terminal mid-field. Boarded fairly quickly. I had a Polaris pod in business class. I’m too old for tourist now! Nice seat. Welcoming sparkling wine. Then we took off. I moved all the blankets and pillow and propped my phone and iPad on the edge next to the wall. A little while later I noticed the phone slowing sinking down and poof! It was gone. Down into the bowels of the plane. Disastro!

Bye bye Italia!

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I went forward and informed the head flight attendant, her name was Alexa, that I had a problem. She said, “what is your problem?” I said, “I lost my phone”. She said, “that IS a problem”. She came to my seat and I showed her where it had disappeared and she pulled the foam stuff out and peered down the crevice. She turned to me and said, I think it’s gone. I asked, where. She said, down into the cargo hold. This kind of surprised me because I always thought the passenger compartment was separately pressurized. I guess not! 🤔 She told me I wasn’t the first and that they were working to fix this flaw. It looks safe to put stuff on but it isn’t.

She told me that the flight deck (pilots) had been informed and they had called ahead to Maintenance to be ready to try to find the phone when we landed. Alexa explained it was a security risk. She said, this plane is not going anywhere until they find it. The question was when would they come, and how long would it take to find it.

The rest of the flight proceeded normally with me worrying about what I’d do without the phone. I was counting on using GPS to find my way around. Things have changed around here. I waited after we landed and went to the back of business class. The head maintenance guy came in who Alexa had hoped would be there, he was a friend. I went into the jetway to wait. He and his peeps went into the hold. I swear, no more than five minutes later he was back with the phone! We all screamed! I was so glad. We all have a story to tell. I am glad that it is over with!

I want to commend all the flight crew. Especially Alexa. She was kind and optimistic even though, after it was over, she said she had no real idea. It was a first for her. Anyway, she was great. And another thing I noticed, as I stood in the back of business class after all of that cabin was empty, and I watched all the people from tourist leaving. They were all very cheerful and complimentary to the crew, thanking them over and over with big smiles saying how great the flight was. I will say I’ve flown tourist all my life and many times on United since Dulles is their main hub, and I had some pretty horrible experiences. I’m glad to see things are better.
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After all that I went through passport control. There was no one there! No wait. And no fuss. Then found my suitcase, went through customs and went to rent my car. I changed out my SIM card and put the hotel where I was staying into the GPS. Now I am up at 4:30AM. My brain said time to get up! So I am finishing a few things like writing this report.

I drive to Wintergreen this morning stopping a few places on my way. I’ll write later about my time in Virginia with my sis.