Monthly Archives: December 2025

Christmas Eve, Christmas day

Hi everyone! I hope you’re enjoying your holiday. I wandered into town on Christmas Eve to take my biscotti Americani (chocolate chip cookies 🙂) to Angelo and Bar Mary. I also stopped by books for dogs for a drop off of some things I thought they could sell, it was busy. But the market was already breaking down because it was Christmas Eve. I sat and had a glass of vino bianco at Bar Mary. It was nice outside in their enclosed seating area. No one there but me.

Cheese stand still open.
Market closing.
On the way home. This is Piazza Carlo Marx, in front of our house.

Luther shared the biscotti I made with all our neighbors in the building and I dropped a bag at the girarrosto downstairs. Nice people, Sarah and Luciano. They work so hard. It is amazing how popular they are. People were waiting in line outside. People come from all around to pickup their orders for Christmas Eve or day lunches or dinners. Super popular but that means they are open on all the holidays. Hard workers those two.

For Christmas Eve dinner I made Cinghiale in Umido. Wild boar stew. Braised in the oven for 4 hours. Turned out very good and tender. You never know with wild boar.

For Christmas dinner I found a small turkey. Only 6.6 pounds, 3 kilos. So I made that with mashed potatoes, broccoli, gravy and cranberry sauce. I like to make a turkey once a year and the stores have started to stock them for the holidays. The turkey was tender and juicy. Now we have left overs for dinner and best of all…turkey sandwiches!

I went out into the hall and saw the offerings from the little girls who live across from us. Their sign says, “welcome and eat well baby Jesus and the donkey”. I thought it was cute. There were bowl and cups with a bit of food left behind. 🥰

We caught up with the families. I spoke to my sister and her husband. I emailed all of the Hamptons on Christmas Eve. I heard back from Luther’s youngest brother, in California. And from my niece in Southern California, who may be paying us a visit in the summer. We had a video call with Luther’s middle brother and some of their family. They have small grandchildren who spent the night and woke at 5:30am so everyone was exhausted. Anyway, everyone is doing pretty good, all things considered.

So, another Christmas has come and gone. I hope you all had a nice holiday. Friday was a holiday here as well, San Stefano. Fino alla prossima volta! 💕

Buon Natale!

It is Christmastime again. I am wishing you all a nice holiday season, whatever you celebrate. It will be quiet for us and that is just fine with me! I am having fun cooking. I have cinghiale which I’m making into a stew today, and a tacchino piccolo, baby turkey, for ourselves tomorrow. Turkey sandwiches here we come! Buon Natale a tutti! Let’s all be kind to one another, ❤️

Musings

I recently read a post by a British couple who moved from the south coast of England to Languedoc in France for their retirement. They started out by asking themselves why couldn’t we have done all this in England? Why did we have to move to France? The south of England has no shortage of beauty, they said. There was a place to grow vegetables, they said. Access to beaches and the New Forest nearby, but they retired to France. Why do people up stakes and change countries to retire?

Well, this made me think. Yes, you can have a garden and enjoy the scenery in your home country, but somehow you choose to move to another country. I love my state of Virginia. I had all I wanted there. But I didn’t have much adventure. Everything was normal, hum drum, expected. And the pace of life, even in retirement was not tranquil. There was little stimulation. The decision to move was more a wish for new horizons. New things to see and learn. A whole different language! And yes one can have almost the same things here as at home, if one would want. But suddenly, in new surroundings I was encouraged to try so many new things. Places to see and visit, foods to make and try, restaurants to discover.

I have been here 11.5 years, so now, most things are “normal” to me. But I remember the time when going to the grocery store was a major undertaking. Deciphering the labels, figuring out that all the meats are completely different cuts, remembering to weigh all your produce, figuring out that eggs aren’t refrigerated here and finding they are on a shelf, seeing the types of flour nothing like home, figuring out the Italian equivalent of baking powder and soda. Every. Single. Thing. Was completely different. Going to the post office 😳. Getting all the permits you need to be able to live here. Going to the doctor. The pharmacy. All of the things you take for granted in the U.S. are now huge adventures, or obstacles, depending on how you look at it.

Everyone is not cut out for a move to Italy. People need to adopt a different reality to adapt here. Really, it’s true. Most people have heard everything is slower in Italy but until you’re trying to get something done here you don’t really understand. They calculate their worth differently. It’s not money that makes you rich, it is friends, family, connections, favors owed. So completely different from the U.S. where the dollar is king and the bottom line, your worth. It takes a bit of getting used to. You cannot approach your builder and offer more money to hurry up the renovation. That won’t work. They just, don’t, care.

I read a lot of the Facebook groups for people who move to Italy. Digital Nomads, Elective Residency Visa holders, students, repatriating Italians… The reasons to move are different for us all. Many come because the cost of living is half of the U.S. (except in the big cities); some come because the quality of life is better; some come for the quality of the food, which is less processed and cleaner; some come for the slower pace. Some, recently, are moving to flee the political situation in the U.S. Some come because they are descendants of Italians who immigrated and they feel the pull to return to their roots. Whatever the reason, many of us choose to relocate.

I know why I “upped stakes” and moved to Italy. It was for the stimulation and adventures. Now we are getting older and slowing down but we still plan four or five big trips a year. And more short ones. We don’t do as much around our area as before, maybe because it is familiar now. Who knows! But we still enjoy the life here.

Market day

The winter market is upon us. I was supposed to work at Books for Dogs on Saturday but it was so slow they sent me home. This gave me time to shop. We were, and still are, in a very cold, damp, dark and foggy time. It has been six, long days with a break on Monday no sun, but no fog. I have been hiding inside. Many friends around here who all live up in the mountains surrounding us are above the clouds that blanket the valley. They report bright sunshine and warmth. Envy, envy, envy.

I lucked out and found turnips with beautiful fresh turnip green tops. Not common here. I’m pretty sure people grow them because Vera once brought me some from her mother-in-law’s garden. Somehow they don’t end up in the market or grocery. Who knows why? 🤷🏻‍♀️ I love the spiciness of the turnip greens and cooked with pancetta, garlic and pepper flakes it is perfect as a pasta sauce, so that’s what we had for dinner!

This is cuisine povera. Poor people’s cooking. The pasta I used was around €1 for the packet and I used 1/3 = 30 cents The pancetta was one quarter of a two pack which was €2.95. = 90 cents. The turnip greens were a throw away so they were essentially free. Then there was a sprinkle of pepper flakes, and two garlic cloves, some olive oil and a sprinkle of pecorino romana cheese at the end. Negligible amount, maybe 50 cents. So we had two bowls of pasta with left over for my lunch for about €1.80 or about $2.10. AND…it was delizioso!

I grew up Southern. All my aunts cooked southern style. Luther’s too. Turnip greens were never wasted but they would never, ever make a pasta. That’s just too Italian. It’s nice to find nearly the same preparation they used to cook the greens here, but used in pasta dishes. Small world. Buon appetito!

Christmas lunch with good friends

Sunday lunch with good friends. We have a group of friends – all Americans. They all live south of us. Two live in Spello. One between Spello and Assisi on Monte Subasio. And one in Foligno. These places are all very near to each other. We are about 45 minutes north of them. I wish we were closer. We get together every month or two for a meal at one of our homes or an outing to a good restaurant.

i wanted us all to be together for a time during the Christmas season. I decided to host. Normally I plan and make the meal but this time I thought a potluck would be fun. I provided the two entrees and the panettone dessert. They brought munchies to start and two sides. Although one turned out to be a yummy soup. A little shuffling ensued so we had a first course of soup, then a salad and the mains. It was a very fun afternoon. The fog lifted for a time and the sun shone but then it rolled back in just in time to make their drives home difficult. Here are photos. Some of them mine, some by Roselyne and Steve.

Centerpiece from local florist
I made baskets and filled them with chocolate as gifts
The set table
Counter where I was going to put the food.
Clementines which I forgot to put out
One main, poached salmon with a cucumber dill sauce.
Roast beef sliced thin with shaved Parmesan and horseradish mustard sauce.
Doug finishing up his salad
The finished product.
The panettone. We ordered a week ago at our local bakery and picked up this week. It is pistacchio and a boozy berry or grape. So fresh and delicious. A world apart from a store bought panettone.
All of us except Steve.

We have no other official plans for the season so this was our big celebration. We do have friends who we may have lunch with after Christmas. And I may ask some others over. We are planning to move house from upstairs to downstairs for a couple months to use the stufa to supplement the heat. But first the Christmas tree needs to undecorated and returned to the terrace. Ciao for now!

UNESCO

This week Italian food was designated a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, becoming the first national culinary tradition in the world to receive such recognition in its entirety. Exciting news.

Here are some fun statistics I read. Italian consumers eat 30 billion plates of pasta annually, drink 56 billion cups of coffee, and consume almost 1 billion kilos of baked goods and sweets. Pasta remains an identity symbol, consumed at 23.3 kg per capita—the highest figure worldwide.

Here are some food pictures from my collection from different regions. Hope you enjoy seeing them.

Caccio e pepe made the traditional way. – Rome
Caccio e pepe – Rome
Fave e chicoria – Puglia Salento
Spaghetti con vongole – Amalfi coast
Risotto con piselli- Milan
Pizza – Naples

Orecchiette rapini – Bari

A few pictures to whet your appetite. All “Italian food” is regional. You won’t get any one of these dishes in any other region. It is important to know the foods of where you are and also the seasonal aspect. For instance, you can’t make Orecchiette rapini in the summer. It is a fall/winter dish.

Mangia, mangia! Buon appetito!

Vineria del Carmine

Today was a very unusual Tuesday. My good friend Elizabeth, who is very well connected around these parts, invited me to join her at a tasting and luncheon at Vineria Del Carmine. Elizabeth is partner in a business called Altabella an Italian Villa vacation rental and Umbrian experience. She has lived here more than twenty years.

The event today was for restauranteurs and people who work in tourism in the Upper Tiber valley. Elizabeth was going and found she could invite someone else. We have been friends for a number of years and she appreciates this blog as promoting this area and tourism around here. So she asked me to join her! I happily accepted.

The tasting room had two long tables set for the event. There would be three separate lunches/tastings. At 12:00, 2:00 and 4:00. The table filled with many people. We were at one end of the table so only were near a few people. They brought three wines to taste during the lunch. A Trebbiano Spoletino (white), a rosato (rosè) made from Merlot and a big red called il Campanile made from Sangiovese and Merlot. All were very nice. We had a small lunch. They make their own very thin bread sticks and two dipping sauces with which we began. They also had delicious bread and their own olive oil. Then we had a nice small main from which we could choose — a polenta with a delicious cheese sauce or pork belly. We had the polenta. Finally a nice dessert which had a LOT going on. From crumbled chocolate cookies, dots of caramel, a panna cotta ring, passion fruit and blackberries. Very nice. Here are pictures with captions. The first two are the tables.

The polenta with the cheese sauce.
The dolce.
Across from the winery is an an abandoned church..

I really had a nice time. It was great to spend time with Elizabeth. Thanks Elizabeth for the invite!

L’immacolata

Today was l’immacolata, the feast of the immaculate conception. It is a national holiday. I wrote about it in another post a while ago. The weather was not as cold as usual. It was another piazza filling event with loud Europop music blasting but also a children’s choir which was nice. Then, the big event, the tree was lit signifying the beginning of the Christmas season. I shared the event with our new American neighbors, Don and Sarah. They kindly gave me a ride. A few pictures.

The tree!
The crowd.
For the kiddos.
One of my favorite shops.
The illuminated city.

And so it begins. Enjoy the season!