We have had a fairly busy few days. We have been in a heat spell so not doing much in the middle of the day for sure. But in the evenings we have been invited to some fun things.
Thursday we went to visit friends in Montone (nearby hill town) for a lovely dinner. We ascended the hill only to find the road closed due to a landslide! So we had to backtrack and go up the other way. This made us 15 minutes late and I HATE being late. Anyway, we finally got there. We were six, all of the four besides us are architects. They have beautifully restored homes in the village. We had a cool supper with antipasti and a nice cold hummus soup and after that, a delicious salmon and cool salads, after which we went upstairs to their logia which is the best thing about their house. An outside-inside space. Furnished, with a table and sofas and a fireplace for cooler weather. Not that it was cold of course! But the cool breeze was welcome and we enjoyed our dolce there.
Then I visited our Saturday market and got cheeses, fresh eggs and tomatoes. It was going to be hot so I went early. That evening we were invited to a birthday party at friends house where we had not been before. Directly across from where Calagrana is but up a winding strada bianca— white road i.e., unpaved road. The road was not bad but it was about the twistiest we had ever encountered. The house was at the tippy top of the mountain with views off to both sides of the ridge. Amazing!
It was a great party for about 50 people. They had a “pig man” do the food. Yes, he owns a pig farm and also makes his own cured sausages and prosciutto which is in a climate controlled warehouse that our host said was probably worth millions. There was a four piece band. Everyone was seated and there were four courses. Started with very delicious cured and thinly sliced prosciutto. Then pasta, which just kept coming. A rigatoni, an orecchiette and last, gnocci with shaved truffles. The secondi was porchetta, roasted potatoes and salad. They actually had a gelato stand for gelato and cake!



Believe it or not, it got actually cold during this party. Down in Umbertide it was in the 90s so I wore a linen dress with short sleeves and sandals. I was freezing before someone shared they found a big basket in the house with blankets! I guess it is always cool at 600 meters. I bet the wind could howl up there. It was a great party!

Just as a point of interest I want to tell you about what transpired while we sat at the table. Across from us sat a nonna and her grandchild, Romeo. Yes, Romeo. The boy, who was five, had a phone and was completely immersed in whatever he was doing. When the pasta course came the nonna carefully cut up each rigatoni and fed it to the boy like he was a baby, while he was completely ignoring her, other that to open his mouth and ingest the food. What would you have thought? If it were me the phone would be turned off and he would feed himself. Italian nonne and Mamas completely spoil their boys. To such an extent that they live at home until they are sometimes 40. And Mama cooks all their meals, cleans their room, does their laundry. So what do you think this man-child will expect of any girlfriend or wife? Yup. I am the Prince…wait on me. Ah well. It is the culture.
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Tomorrow we leave on our short trip to Sestri Levanti for a little sea air, good seafood, Ligurian specialties, and relaxation. I will post pictures after we get home. We got our first tomato this week so I am looking forward to tomatoes from my two plants when we get back! Ciao for now!
Hi Luis, it was closer to Montone. We were nearly up to the top when we got to the no entry sign. I wish they had posted at the bottom. Our friends said it happened months ago, somehow I didn’t hear about it, and the road is a Comune maintained road. They have no money to repair and it will be a big expense with a needed retaining wall and new road support.
I don’t think I’ve seen those movies. I need to find them. It was rather appalling. Yes, I’m looking forward to SL
Where was the road blocked by the landslide? Closer to Umbertide or Montone? Just curious, as we have been to Montone a couple of times(and traveled to Umbertide and surrounding area) and hate to hear of anything that causes problems. Love your blog! Thank you.
Saluti dal Texas
Luis Venitucci
So entertained by this terrific post, especially your description of little Romeo. There are two Fellini movies that show the comic results of such spoiling – “I Vitteloni” and the uncle in “Amarcord.” They’re certainly worth watching, especially Amarcord. Have fun in Sestri!!