Category Archives: cooking

It’s quiz night! And it is March!

I am celebrating spring. The cherry trees are blooming and the Mimosa. The Japanese magnolia, always first, is blooming everywhere. Most of the trees have obvious buds now. The weather is springlike with cool temperatures and showers interspersed with sun.

We had a meet up for Sunday pranzo with my friend Doug up in his amazing home. It was the gang of six. A perfect day and we welcomed primavera. It was the final day of the Olympics and he made the signature dish from the north of Italy which was served everywhere from the cafeterias at the Olympic village to 3 Star Michelin restaurants in Milan. It is called Pizzoccheri and is made with buckwheat pasta (homemade by Doug), potatoes, garlic cheese topped by butter. A real calorie bomb. But good! 😋 plus a refreshing salad to make up for it and a beautiful lemon tart. Thanks Doug for a fun time and it was lovely seeing the “gang”.

I have been out and about a bit. I went into centro last week and met up with the local cat carer, who is also a lawyer. She has 7 cats of her own but cares for the Umbertide registered feral cat colony which presently numbers about 40. She was sweet. I gave a donation for one of the ferals who is in the clinic and sick. No one knows if he will make it. We met at Bar Mary, where else? One of the houses erected for the colony. Photo by Marta.

And here is a pic of the Saturday action, along with a tree the likes of which I have never seen.

Tuesday night was the Quiz Night benefit for Books For Dogs. They have it in a local restaurant. The questions are in English. It always sells out. It is very fun and we have a team, this time it is all Americans. I think. Two people are new to me. We are at a disadvantage since the questions are compiled by a British person and they can be British centric. So best to have a Brit or two on the team. It is all for fun and a good cause so who really cares. The tickets get you a free wine and some snacks. Here are some pics of the action.

They had this amazing pot of pansies outside, so petty that I had to take a picture.
The players.
One part is id identifying pictures of famous people. Harder when they have masks.
You play the joker for double points on the round at which you feel the most competent.
The bar area. Grace is the restaurant that hosts us. It is a nice local restaurant.

Sadly our team, Perché, came in last. Next time we will have to try to find a few other nationalities to join up with.

Today I went to my first session of private PT. I came to the conclusion I need some help to strengthen my muscles. My therapista is Ricardo. He was quite nice and we communicated in mostly my poor Italian. The words used in this new activity are new to me so I did a lot of improvisation. I now have a program, and “compiti” — “homework”. I vow I will exercise everyday. Another appointment next week,

Happy primavera a tutti!

I giorni della merla – and food!

I had a new experience this week. I placed an order with a group called Villagio del Cibo. I was turned onto this group by friends and got on their mailing list. Every two weeks I get an email with an attached order form with all the available products. It changes according to the season and who has what. The products are provided by a network of producers who sign up to sell their stuff. It is brilliant. They are all from here in the Upper Tiber valley. Local and certified organic. This gives the producers a market and we consumers get the benefit of good, safe, food. Win, win. So I do want to support this. This being winter the veggies are limited to what’s growing now. I got broccoli, cabbage, radicchio, and cavallo nero (Tuscan kale). I also got fresh eggs, roasted hazelnuts (nocciole), dried chickpeas (ceci) and a bottle of passata (tomato sauce). First picture veggies, second a soup I made.

We have a shop here called Giorgio al Mare. It is all frozen food. Mostly seafood focused but tons of other stuff. They have whole kits for pasta al mare, seafood risotto, etc. Frozen of course. Also every type of fish and shellfish imaginable. They even have vegetables and sweets. In fact this store is where I buy my cinghiale. Only place I have seen that stocks it. I buy quite a bit of seafood there. Many fish fillets which make a quick dinner. Also all my shrimp comes from there (it’s deveined and shelled but you can get it uncleaned). All kinds of whole fish which I roast or grill. I like their salmon. Last time I went I got two tuna steaks. I made them last night. They were a big hit with Luther and I even liked it. The marinade made it happen. It was much like a steak, very meaty. I also served it with a a pretty salad with chickpeas, clementine segments, and cherry tomatoes. The salad dressing was the same as the marinade. I just seared the tuna, here is a photo.

A weird experiment. Luther mail ordered a bunch of food. Don’t ask 😑 So now it is up to me to cook it all eventually. One thing was a Wagyu steak. It is apparently a famous thing. So I thawed it out and cooked it. I bet it was 75% fat. I think that’s why people like it. The first picture is the raw steak, note the fat. The second was after cooking. It was quite tasty, and interesting, but not worth the cost.


Finally something that cheered me. I learned a new thing about Italy. January 29-30-31 are i giorni della merla – the days of the blackbird. It is a little-known period which has several legends. The one I liked was that this is the coldest the winter will be and the blackbirds shelter from the cold in their nests or near chimneys. They say that if it is cold during these three days, spring will come early. My friend, who posted this, said it beats a giant rodent (sorry Phil). I have a special place in my heart for blackbirds. This morning I had a treat. Our resident blackbird was singing his heart out behind our building in the middle of the night. At least he thinks it will be spring soon anyway! Sing my little friend, sing! 💕

This guy I photoed a few years ago in Liguria. It was his special day. He found a cherry!

Epifania

Today is Epifania, a holiday, the day the 3 magi came to visit the Christ child. It marks the official end of the Christmas season. Now we hunker down and try to struggle through the longest, coldest and darkest month.

We are in the very beginning of a frigid week. There is a polar vortex that’s covering most of Europe. France is the coldest since 2012 and I would wager it will be here as well. Predicted to have -5C (23F) tonight and -8C (17F) tomorrow. Coldest in the 11+ years we have been here. So cold that the cover covering he lemon and kumquats will not be adequate protection, so they now are inside upstairs.

I also looked up olive trees and how hardy they are. Seems mature trees can tolerate to -9C but young trees only to -4C. I’m wondering if this will damage these around here. I hope not. They say the cold is good to kill the fly larvae, but this is pushing it.

For a treat, it began snowing here about 1pm. Is is very pretty. Slowed down now (4:30) but with that cold coming it could make for treacherous roads, Video I took, I hope it is visible.

I have been making cold weather food the last couple of days. I made a big pot of potato leek soup for lunches, and a big pot of chili last night. Sticks to the ribs and warms you up.

Stay warm if it’s cold where you are. If it’s warm, enjoy it! Ciao!

Buon anno a tutti!

I decided to make Hoppin John soup instead of traditional Hoppin John. I made this last year and really liked it. It is also a one pot meal and I was not up for making multiple things. I had left over rice so that made it doubly easy.

I was tired last night because we decided to move from the top floor to the bottom floor in our apartment. It was quite a lot of work. Just emptying the refrigerator and freezer was a lot! I am trying this out this year but I am not sure I will do it again. Part of the reason is the stufa is on the main floor. We have a pallet of pellets in the garage. We wanted to use them and augment the heat. I also wanted to just test it out. It seemed a waste to never use anything but a bedroom and the bathrooms on this floor. The upstairs will now not be heated to save money. We will move back up in the spring. Anyway, we concluded a hard days work would kill us 😁 We moved Luther’s desk and chair down, that was a pain, and then there were all the spices and some food. Multiple trips. But it’s done now and the experiment begins.

We are going out for lunch in a bit with good friends from Montone. That will be a nice treat!

Happy New Year to all.

Christmas Eve, Christmas day

Hi everyone! I hope you’re enjoying your holiday. I wandered into town on Christmas Eve to take my biscotti Americani (chocolate chip cookies 🙂) to Angelo and Bar Mary. I also stopped by books for dogs for a drop off of some things I thought they could sell, it was busy. But the market was already breaking down because it was Christmas Eve. I sat and had a glass of vino bianco at Bar Mary. It was nice outside in their enclosed seating area. No one there but me.

Cheese stand still open.
Market closing.
On the way home. This is Piazza Carlo Marx, in front of our house.

Luther shared the biscotti I made with all our neighbors in the building and I dropped a bag at the girarrosto downstairs. Nice people, Sarah and Luciano. They work so hard. It is amazing how popular they are. People were waiting in line outside. People come from all around to pickup their orders for Christmas Eve or day lunches or dinners. Super popular but that means they are open on all the holidays. Hard workers those two.

For Christmas Eve dinner I made Cinghiale in Umido. Wild boar stew. Braised in the oven for 4 hours. Turned out very good and tender. You never know with wild boar.

For Christmas dinner I found a small turkey. Only 6.6 pounds, 3 kilos. So I made that with mashed potatoes, broccoli, gravy and cranberry sauce. I like to make a turkey once a year and the stores have started to stock them for the holidays. The turkey was tender and juicy. Now we have left overs for dinner and best of all…turkey sandwiches!

I went out into the hall and saw the offerings from the little girls who live across from us. Their sign says, “welcome and eat well baby Jesus and the donkey”. I thought it was cute. There were bowl and cups with a bit of food left behind. 🥰

We caught up with the families. I spoke to my sister and her husband. I emailed all of the Hamptons on Christmas Eve. I heard back from Luther’s youngest brother, in California. And from my niece in Southern California, who may be paying us a visit in the summer. We had a video call with Luther’s middle brother and some of their family. They have small grandchildren who spent the night and woke at 5:30am so everyone was exhausted. Anyway, everyone is doing pretty good, all things considered.

So, another Christmas has come and gone. I hope you all had a nice holiday. Friday was a holiday here as well, San Stefano. Fino alla prossima volta! 💕

Market day

The winter market is upon us. I was supposed to work at Books for Dogs on Saturday but it was so slow they sent me home. This gave me time to shop. We were, and still are, in a very cold, damp, dark and foggy time. It has been six, long days with a break on Monday no sun, but no fog. I have been hiding inside. Many friends around here who all live up in the mountains surrounding us are above the clouds that blanket the valley. They report bright sunshine and warmth. Envy, envy, envy.

I lucked out and found turnips with beautiful fresh turnip green tops. Not common here. I’m pretty sure people grow them because Vera once brought me some from her mother-in-law’s garden. Somehow they don’t end up in the market or grocery. Who knows why? 🤷🏻‍♀️ I love the spiciness of the turnip greens and cooked with pancetta, garlic and pepper flakes it is perfect as a pasta sauce, so that’s what we had for dinner!

This is cuisine povera. Poor people’s cooking. The pasta I used was around €1 for the packet and I used 1/3 = 30 cents The pancetta was one quarter of a two pack which was €2.95. = 90 cents. The turnip greens were a throw away so they were essentially free. Then there was a sprinkle of pepper flakes, and two garlic cloves, some olive oil and a sprinkle of pecorino romana cheese at the end. Negligible amount, maybe 50 cents. So we had two bowls of pasta with left over for my lunch for about €1.80 or about $2.10. AND…it was delizioso!

I grew up Southern. All my aunts cooked southern style. Luther’s too. Turnip greens were never wasted but they would never, ever make a pasta. That’s just too Italian. It’s nice to find nearly the same preparation they used to cook the greens here, but used in pasta dishes. Small world. Buon appetito!

Christmas lunch with good friends

Sunday lunch with good friends. We have a group of friends – all Americans. They all live south of us. Two live in Spello. One between Spello and Assisi on Monte Subasio. And one in Foligno. These places are all very near to each other. We are about 45 minutes north of them. I wish we were closer. We get together every month or two for a meal at one of our homes or an outing to a good restaurant.

i wanted us all to be together for a time during the Christmas season. I decided to host. Normally I plan and make the meal but this time I thought a potluck would be fun. I provided the two entrees and the panettone dessert. They brought munchies to start and two sides. Although one turned out to be a yummy soup. A little shuffling ensued so we had a first course of soup, then a salad and the mains. It was a very fun afternoon. The fog lifted for a time and the sun shone but then it rolled back in just in time to make their drives home difficult. Here are photos. Some of them mine, some by Roselyne and Steve.

Centerpiece from local florist
I made baskets and filled them with chocolate as gifts
The set table
Counter where I was going to put the food.
Clementines which I forgot to put out
One main, poached salmon with a cucumber dill sauce.
Roast beef sliced thin with shaved Parmesan and horseradish mustard sauce.
Doug finishing up his salad
The finished product.
The panettone. We ordered a week ago at our local bakery and picked up this week. It is pistacchio and a boozy berry or grape. So fresh and delicious. A world apart from a store bought panettone.
All of us except Steve.

We have no other official plans for the season so this was our big celebration. We do have friends who we may have lunch with after Christmas. And I may ask some others over. We are planning to move house from upstairs to downstairs for a couple months to use the stufa to supplement the heat. But first the Christmas tree needs to undecorated and returned to the terrace. Ciao for now!

UNESCO

This week Italian food was designated a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, becoming the first national culinary tradition in the world to receive such recognition in its entirety. Exciting news.

Here are some fun statistics I read. Italian consumers eat 30 billion plates of pasta annually, drink 56 billion cups of coffee, and consume almost 1 billion kilos of baked goods and sweets. Pasta remains an identity symbol, consumed at 23.3 kg per capita—the highest figure worldwide.

Here are some food pictures from my collection from different regions. Hope you enjoy seeing them.

Caccio e pepe made the traditional way. – Rome
Caccio e pepe – Rome
Fave e chicoria – Puglia Salento
Spaghetti con vongole – Amalfi coast
Risotto con piselli- Milan
Pizza – Naples

Orecchiette rapini – Bari

A few pictures to whet your appetite. All “Italian food” is regional. You won’t get any one of these dishes in any other region. It is important to know the foods of where you are and also the seasonal aspect. For instance, you can’t make Orecchiette rapini in the summer. It is a fall/winter dish.

Mangia, mangia! Buon appetito!

Fave è Cicoria – perfect autumn dish

Hi everyone! We are in the midst of amazing autumnal weather. At least two perfect weeks. In the U.S. it is called Second Summer (formerly Indian Summer which is no longer used), in Germany it is called Goldener Oktober, and in Italy it is called estate di San Martino, which translates to “St. Martin’s Summer”. This term refers to a period of unseasonably warm, dry weather that usually occurs around St. Martin’s Day on November 11th. 

Umbertide is full of autumn color. I was out and about today and got a couple of photos of the trees and flowers.

After our trip to Puglia I was inspired to make one of the lunch dishes we had while in Lecce. The entire south of Italy, called the Mezzogiorno, always has been very poor. Most of the Italians who immigrated to other countries came from these regions to find a better life. The food that evolved there is called cucina povera, literally poor cuisine. Fave è cicoria is a traditional dish made from only four ingredients. Dried fava beans, chicory, which is available everywhere here now in supermarkets, (but would have been foraged in the wild back in the day), garlic and pepper flakes. Finally it is served with a drizzle of olive oil. Gnam, gnam. (Italian for yum yum 😁)

Raw cicoria.
Dried fave without the skin. Very easy to use, all the work is done.
Cooking the cicoria
Cooking the fave
Final dish. Gnom, gnom.

Buon autunno! 🍁 🍂 🍁

Week of unusual food…for here!

This week we were invited to join our Italian famiglia for a Thai dinner. Vera’s birthday was last Sunday and for a present her family gave her the gift of a Thai chef who came to her house and cooked a meal for us all. She invited friends and her two daughters (who chose the menu) were there as well as Graziano, her husband. The other guests were Nicolai and Annette, from Denmark whom we have met many times, and Nik and Henrietta who I had heard of but never met. Nik is a pretty famous artist. He is British and has an estate here in Umbria. They were super nice. If you wish to look him up his name is Nic Fiddian Green. He does primarily sculpture and his subject is horses. In fact he is exhibiting in a town named Middleburg in Virginia near where I used to live next year.

Anyway, the chef was a diminutive Thai woman and her caucasian husband helper. The menu was three antipasti, one primi, and two secondi. I took pictures of my favourites.

I accidentally ate a sliver of red pepper and it was HOT! once I had stuffed a bunch of rice in my mouth and recovered I told Desiree not to eat that! But she was curious. I picked up a piece and said just taste a tiny piece. Well it turned out it was a sweet pepper. So she went to the plate and picked up another piece. She must have thought I was crazy, and she popped it into her mouth. it is funny, the lag from first taste to when the heat hits, but it did.

It was a fun meal. I like that Vera is super adventurous when it comes to food, She is adventurous in most ways. She loves to travel and see new countries. As do her two daughters. She is inhibited by Graziano who is by no means adventurous. But he did like the dumplings filled with sausage. The meal had a nice amount of spice. Thanks Vera, for the invite! And buon compeanno!
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Then Luther and I decided to have a sushi lunch at the place we went to in the summer, Shiso. It is relatively new in town and is finding its footing. The menu was completely different this time. It tells us it is learning its audience and what they will eat. The last time the menu was more complicated. It has been simplified and streamlined. We decided to get the 16 piece chef selection. I was also intrigued by the Poke bowls. They had three sizes which allowed you to pick the protein, the sauce, and the extras. I may try that next time.

I leave you with a picture of our Simba. He had to see the vet this week. He is 16 and that comes with problems of old age. And don’t I know it! He is a sweety.