Category Archives: Uncategorized

Follow up

So today we returned to the Dipartimento di Salute to finalize our health insurance. We could not ‘jump the line’ as we thought but this day was far calmer with fewer people waiting. After only about 40 minutes we went in to see LL.

What a surprise! She was quite nice to us. But she really opened up when we began discussing restaurants that we had been to. I guess food is a subject close to her heart 🙂 given her girth! We were given cards and assigned a doctor. We asked for the one Susan and Gary have. The only glitch is that our Permissi run out in June so it is only good until June. We have to go start up our Permissi process again and then they will extend it until the end of the year. Our doctor has hours and you just drop in. I’ll let Luther go first so I see how it goes.

On Sunday we drove to Citta della Pieve. It is very close to the Tuscan border and is a very pretty hill town. I was impressed that it was a really active place with lots of people about. Nice bars and outside spaces. Here is one of the pretty streets.

DSC03797

We found one of the restaurants that we had read about called Zafferanno Pievese.

DSC03804

The menu had a surprise on it. Hamburger!

DSC03799

But WOW was it expensive. Note the price above. I guess since it was made from the famous Chianina beef with bernese sauce and to top it off the Famous Onions of Cannara. Perhaps it was worth the price. I resisted ordering it. Maybe if we go back. Below are our two appetizers. They were good but a lot of food. I did not care for my primi but maybe it was just the ingredients. Luther liked his steak.

DSC03801

DSC03802

It was a fun day!

New car caviar!!

Well it finally happened. We got a CAR!! Gary gave us a ride up to Citta di Castello and we picked up our shiny, very white, VW Golf. It is pretty basic but should be a good car for us here. Plenty of room for four people and luggage, or toting stuff. It gets about 60 miles per gallon which will be great and it is a diesel engine so fuel is “cheaper”. Since we arrived here last June the price of diesel has fallen from 1.48 Euro per liter to 1.32 now (about $5.00 a gallon). To top that off the Euro has fallen from 1.49 to about 1.18 now. Anyway, we are very happy with the Golf.

DSC03795

DSC03796

It would have been good of them to mention that new cars here come with ZERO gas! We noticed on the Superstrada and quickly got of with the range on the odometer at zero. We lucked out and found a station but not without some angst on our part! Apparently this is normal but we didn’t know.

We immediately went to the grocery store to buy big heavy things we couldn’t buy without a car. We got a couple of cases of wine and 4 bags of pellet for the stuffa.

When we got back we made an appointment with Marco who owns some buildings just across the river. He has a bunch of underground garages and we are looking into renting one. It will be for the Porsche eventually but right now we can use it for the Golf.

Other than that exciting news I mentioned in my last post that it was Epiphany. Sure enough, they had a gigantic rally of the Vespa club in the piazza. There were hundreds!

DSC03786

The Christmas tree was sawed up into little piece on the 7th, the day after Epiphany. They sawed off all the limbs, then chopped up the trunk. Much faster coming down that going up. They also took up all the red carpets and removed all the lights in the streets. So it is now bleak January. It is really quite warm right now. I was out on the patio and it was like spring. We hope we have some good cold snaps because it is needed to kill off the bugs that infected the grapes and olives last year.

Here is a final photo of my Bolognese sauce cooking on our stove in my Mom’s big ole cast iron pan. Just nice.

DSC03794

Befana

Today is Epiphany. I looked it up and it is the day the Magi came to the baby Jesus. The day before Epiphany is called Twelfth-night or Twelfth-day and marks the end of Christmastide. In Italy the Eve of Epiphany is when Befana comes bringing gifts for the children.

The Piazza was filled with booths selling things. Many of them seemed to be linked to Befana. I noticed LOTS of stockings for sale like we are more used to seeing at Christmas.
DSC03772

DSC03773

So I looked it up on Wikipedia and here is what it says:

In popular folklore Befana visits all the children of Italy on the eve of the Feast of the Epiphany to fill their stockings with candy and presents if they are good. Or a lump of coal or dark candy if they are bad. In many poorer parts of Italy and in particular rural Sicily, a stick in a stocking was placed instead of coal. Being a good housekeeper, many say she will sweep the floor before she leaves. To some the sweeping meant the sweeping away of the problems of the year. The child’s family typically leaves a small glass of wine and a plate with a few morsels of food, often regional or local, for the Befana.

Pretty familiar. I liked the sweeping away the problems of the previous year. In Umbertide Befana arrives in an Ape (pronounced app-ay). One of those little 3 wheeled vehicles with a truck bed. How perfect! They attached a chair for her to sit in and she throws candy to all the children who surround the Ape. It drives around the Piazza. There was a band of course. The Ape beeped it’s horn as it went.

DSC03777

DSC03780

DSC03784

I was shooting these with my zoom from our house so they are kind of blurry but you get the idea.

I am not sure if there is any activity associated with the Epiphany. I heard the church bells ringing this morning at 8AM. I believe there is supposed to be a feast.

Luther is now fighting the cold I had. We also are waiting for Emanuele to bring some packages of things I ordered. Last night when Luther went into the kitchen all the lights went out when he turned them on – there was a POP sound. uh oh. So hopefully Emanuele can fix them.

January 2, 2015

We enjoyed our New Years Eve at Patrick’s Enotecca. He had a nice spread of food, some of which was from the Tyrol in northern Italy as his wife comes from there. It was paired with some wines from that region as well. The town shot off fireworks at midight which we watched until we were too cold. Afterwards we walked back into town and the band was in full swing. We headed on into our house while Susan and company stayed out and hopped up and down to the music as the Italians do. The noise was quite bearable and the cats seemed to have acclimated to the constant fireworks which everyone seems to have.

On January 1 we had a very nice New Year lunch with Susan and Gary and her sister, husband and Joseph and Paul. Very nice food catered by Colagranna. My cold caught up with me and I was a tired puppy afterwards and hit the sack early. Too much partying!

Today, January 2 I felt better but still not back to normal. Today was the day we had to drop off the Clown Car. We had decided we could live without a car for the time we needed to wait until our car was ready. We dropped the car at the train station in Perugia and then took the MiniMetro (only 2 blocks away) up to the top of the town. Then we wandered down to the Etruscan Museum that we had wanted to see. It was very good but a few more English write ups would have made me happier. After we were there a couple of hours and I was all Etruscan and Roman artifacted out we went up and had lunch at Pasticeria where we had eaten a couple of times before. The place was PACKED. It had always been pretty empty before but this time they had two big groups and lots of families with little children making it pretty chaotic. We had a nice lunch though and walked down to the OTHER train station. This station is a short line that only goes from Perugia to San Sepulcro. But it is pretty convenient and it dropped us off right in Umbertide.

Monday is the day Befana comes to town. In Italian folklore, Befana is an old woman who delivers gifts to children throughout Italy on Epiphany Eve (the night of January 5) in a similar way to St Nicholas or Santa Claus. But children get gifts from both Father Christmas and Befana. Lucky kids. I will keep a watch out for her arrival. Maybe grab a picture or two! But here she is as I could find her on the internet.

befana1

Next week we pick up our car… or we THINK we will. After all this is Italy. One never knows…

New Year’s Eve

Sitting in the (mostly) warm living room. It is funny that energy costs in Italy are four times the costs of other European countries and yet they have NO insulation in their buildings. We too have no insulation and live in a four hundred year (or thereabouts) building made of stone. Even though we have very good windows it remains drafty.

I see it has been exactly a year since my first post. A lot has happened in that year. It kind of amazes me that we could pull off our dream with no serious hitches. Last December I was writing about our up-coming house hunting trip. Today I am in my house in Italy! It was an incredible year. I have to be SO thankful to have found wonderful new friends in Susan and Gary who really helped us immeasurably. I look forward to many adventures with them. We also have found other friends John and Libby who live in Montone and helped us get our Permessi. I thank them as well. Hopefully next year we will be able to get to know them better.

This next year we hope to start traveling some. We think our first trip will be to Barcelona. We can grab a quick and inexpensive trip on Ryan air from the nearby Perugia airport. They fly once a week on Thursday and return once a week on Sunday. That seems to be about right. Other places on our bucket list are Turkey, Croatia and Greece. All three are on the Adriatic so not far away.

I also hope to take some classes in Italian from a school in Citta di Castello. Luther has arranged to practice his conversation with Vera who also cleans our house. He knows all the grammar but just needs practice speaking and understanding.

Tonight there is to be the big celebration Capodanno. Their way of celebrating the New Year. They have set up a bandstand on the Piazza. From what I am told the Umbertidese party until the wee hours. We shall see what they are made of because it is VERY cold here. And the winds are whistling down the narrow streets and through the Piazza. I cannot imagine partying in that cold, or playing instruments. But they have cleaned up after the small market today, readying for the show! We shall see how much noise we get in our new house from a party on the Piazza.

DSC03771

We are going over to Patrick’s Enotecca across the river. We are joining Susan, Gary and Susan’s sister and husband in some wine drinking and light dining. I am not sure I’ll last to midnight as I have a pretty nasty cold but I am up for trying.

Happy New Year!!!

Happy New Year!

Today is December 30. Almost to the New Year. And what a year 2014 was for us as you all know! And this morning we awoke to a light dusting of snow. So pretty and so nice to be in our own house.

Tiber-winter2

Carta d’Identita!! And Buon Natale!

WOW! Today a red letter day! Here is what has been happening. Since we received our Permessi last Saturday we have been working hard to get our Residenza. We went to the Comune (city hall) on Monday morning and they did the paperwork for our house. Putting it into our name and showing we will move in at the end of the year for garbage tax etc. We took that to another department where they filled out our papers to get our Residenza which will include a visit by the Police to our house to make sure we actually live there.

On Tuesday we went car shopping in Perugia. It was not very hopeful. We thought we were going to have to order a car which would take a couple of months minimum. We decided we’d go up to Citta di Castello on Wednesday, Christmas Eve, where they have an auto row type street to see about ordering an Alfa. We went to the VW dealer first. The salesman was pretty helpful. We explained we needed to buy a car as soon as possible. He found a VW Golf Diesel with most of what we wanted in Arrezzo (not too far away). They would install the GPS for us at an additional charge. Seemed like a good deal. We told him we would think about it. We wanted to try the Alfa dealer. He pretty much laughed at us saying what we wanted was impossible. Since we did have the VW in hand we decided to go back and buy it.

We did so. They explained that our Permessi were not enough to buy it. We had to have the Residenza. SO when we got back to Umbertide we decided to visit the Police to see if we could speed it up some. Serendipitously we ran into Jim (our realtor) as we were turning away from the Police door after reading their hours. Jim is not put off by closing time. He rang the bell and ushered us right in. He talked to the Policeman who found our visit request at the bottom of a big stack. He explained where we lived and he stamped all our papers and called ahead and we went up and GOT OUR RESIDENZA permits!!! I think getting our Permessi and Residenza in only 3 business days must be a record.

This means we can actually close the deal on the VW and return our rental without extending it (we hope!). This is a most welcome Christmas present for us!

DSC03763

Other things of interest

We got our guest bed head and foot boards.
DSC03753

Looks and is comfy!

We also went to Castiglione del Lago with Susan and Gary for lunch on Sunday. It was a lovely, very mild day. Lots of folks out and about. We had a great lunch at Monna Lisa. This is a seafood restaurant that we were sure Susan and Gary would love as we had eaten there with Jodi and Don recently.

Pictures of Castiglione.
DSC03757

DSC03760

DSC03759

DSC03756

Finally, at the end of a very eventful year for us, we want to wish everyone a Buon Natale! We will have a nice Christmas Eve dinner with friends tonight.

We are legal!!

Today was the big day. We drove up to Citta di Castello to the Questura to get our Permessi! I have to say it was a bit anti-climactic. Went in, got fingerprinted again, signed a paper and they gave us our cards. All done in 5 minutes. They are good until June 25, 2015. You know what that means, right? We pretty much have to start working on getting it renewed right away. Maybe it’s faster to renew? Who knows!

Since we were up there we drove up to San Guigliano to the furniture store to pick out a table for our kitchen which we did. I hope it fits up the stairs! Always an issue here.

Pranzo guests!

We have done a few errands this week. We found a store called Leroy Merlin which is like a Home Depot. It has a lot of stuff we needed. I got some plastic bins to help organize stuff and some plug adapters. Luther said electrical stuff here is haphazard and I’d say that’s an understatement. Everytime I go to plug something in I need an adapter. They have grounded plugs and ungrounded plugs and the reverse for outlets and I never have what I need!

We also paid a visit to Deruta of ceramics fame. I bought some salt and pepper shakers and a utensil holder for my counter.

DSC03748

DSC03747

We got our stuffa (pellet stove) working. Yay! Keeps the room nice and warm and is pretty festive next to the tree don’t you think?

DSC03750

We also got our grill!!! We ordered a standard Weber grill which I am intimately familiar with. Now I can start cooking but first I need to find charcoal. Baby steps. Luther put the grill together while I was working on lunch for our first guests.

DSC03749

We invited Susan and Gary and Joseph and Paul (all American lunch!) and I decided to buck tradition and make a green pozole since I had shipped some of the needed ingredients. It was a bit different because I had to substitute some stuff but it came out pretty good. Anyway my guests seemed to like it. I think when I cook, if possible I’ll make things that we can’t get here. It is nice to have some variety. We really enjoyed entertaining in our new home!

Christmas in Umbertide

The Christmas Market is going strong in the Piazza and along the nearby streets. They have some pretty nice things. Lots of hand knitted hats and scarves. A stand with beautiful towels and linen. And this could not happen in the US, there is a white truffle stand! I was walking along and caught the unmistakable aroma of the truffles then looked around and there they were.

Truffles
DSC03736

Prices are 10 Euro, 15 Euro, or 20 Euro for a truffle of varying sizes.
DSC03737

Various merchandise.
DSC03735

DSC03740
Did I mention they play music from loud speakers all over town? Mostly Christmas music but they also like the Eagles. AND they have put red carpets in front of the stores in the Centro and nearby streets. We have a red carpet right down Via Grilli where we live. They have lots and lots of lights up at night on all the streets too. Very festive.

Via Grilli
DSC03733

Other parts of town.
DSC03734

DSC03739

DSC03741

Last Friday we went to an amazing concert in the Church on the Piazza San Francesco. It was a Homage to Mozart played by the Chamber Orchestra of Perugia. There was a wonderful almost duel between the first violin and a woman playing a viola. I had heard that piece before but when you see and hear it in person it is mesmerizing. There will be three more concerts by them between now and the end of the holidays. We will surely go. And they are free. Big turn out as well.

Permessi
We got some AMAZING news yesterday, finally, at long last, our Permessi di Sogiorni are ready for pickup on Saturday December 20. Wow. What a Christmas present. It only took five months. We have to begin the process all over pretty soon.

Media
We have gotten our Skye TV set up now and now have more channels that we will ever need. All different languages and lots of English stuff. I have to say, six months without TV was not a problem for me. Right now Luther has found the Padre Pio Network – only in Italy.

We also ordered some speakers to be delivered and set up Monday. We have been having internet issues. The WIFI is in the living room and the office is at the other end of the house (not really that far) and we have issues getting internet there. This house is over 300 years old and there are some mighty thick walls which we think are impeding reception. We need to work on this.

Upcoming
We are invited to Lynda’s house. She rented us her apartment last January on our house hunting trip. She lives here full time now and is British. She is going back to the UK for Christmas and we are taking care of Sandy her 14 year old cat. We are invited for mince pies and mulled wine and to meet Sandy. How Happy Holidays!

We have a busy week ahead. Vera is coming tomorrow to clean Susan and Gary’s apartment that we borrowed. Speakers come tomorrow. We have some buying errands to run. We have also invited our first guests over for lunch on Thursday. We will be six, Susan and Gary and Joseph and Paul. I found some cilantro yesterday and am excited to do something southwestern – or as close as I can come to that here.