Progress…

The work started as promised on Monday. We could hear them using power tools from down on the ground.

This morning (Tuesday) very early a truck came and they dumped a bunch of debris into it and it drove off. Then all day there was much noise of working. We could hear it from this apartment. The streets are narrow and the sound echos. They leave the windows wide open.

So with all of that noise I figured there would be molto progress. I went over and was kind of disappointed. But they are probably doing things in the attic that I can’t see. What I did notice was that all the kitchen tiles for the floor have been delivered. And there was a wall in the future guest room that was covered in a red plastic substance. Manuele was concerned that there was a crack running through it and it is a load bearing wall so he took off the plastic covering today (I hated it so was glad) and they covered it over with the stucco they use on the walls here. I assume the crack was not important or they wouldn’t have covered it over. Here are the two pictures. In the second one you can see at the bottom left on the wall in a little rectangle the color it used to be.

floor tiles in their boxes

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Castello Monte Vibiano

Progress has stalled at the apartment. I keep going over and nothing has changed. SO this morning we went over to see Emanuele. He was outside and saw us coming. I think he knew we were coming to talk about the lack of progress. He assured us he had received all of the tiles for both the terrace and the interior. Also all the lighting. He said work would begin anew on Monday (day after tomorrow) and continue until it’s done. He “said” 10 – 15 days. We’ll see!

Day before yesterday I decided to unpack all of our clothes. I decided to put them in the closets or the chest of drawers so they should stay clean through the renovation work. It was good to get a few things new to wear.

Yesterday we went on an outing. We invited Susan and Gary to join us. We were going to visit a winery in the Gamboro Rossi wine book. Monte Vibiano is it’s name. We, of course, got really lost in the Umbrian hills. The GPS dumped us on a “white road”. Unpaved and in the middle of nowhere. We saw a man who we spoke to about the location and finally found it in the town of Morcella.

The write-up described it as totally ECO green. They put out no CO2. They give tours in custom made electric carts. The building is beautiful and the grounds manicured. They had just started the harvest. A friendly woman named Camilla came over and introduced herself as the sister of the CEO. Their grandfather had started the winery and they had moved it forward embracing the green concept. We tasted the wines and they were quite good. They have tours which include wine and appetizers. You need to make reservations well in advance. There are two per day.  Here are some pictures.

The crush.

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The front of the property.

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The tasting room.

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Afterwards we went to lunch albeit not in the place we had reservations. It was OK. Since it was Friday they had a whole fish menu which we had. All in all a good time.

Unpacking UPakWeShip boxes

Well I got around to unpacking our boxes. Actually I just went through them checking for damage as I can’t really unpack until the work is done. There were many things broken. Some of them were my favorites. Oh well.

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I did find some things we can use right now. For instance our cat tree!! The instant we brought it into the house the cats were ON IT! I am sure they remembered it and were happy to see it. Since then they play and sleep constantly on it. Happy days!

I also found the — da dum — bathroom scale. Oh joy! So I brought it over to the apartment and in due time I weighed myself. And… I have not gained weight! Hard to imagine but there it is. And it makes me happy.

Yesterday we met up with some people that my sister virtually introduced us to. They are from the Northern Virginia area and have purchased a place in Montepulciano in Tuscany. We have visited the town a couple of times on previous vacations here but only in passing and only to eat outside the walls. This time we went up into this hill town which is famous for the Vino Nobile de Montepulciano red wines. It took only about an hour and fifteen minutes to get there from our house.

Very pretty town. Lots of shops. We went early and toured the churches and some of the squares. One thing I noticed as well. The town is crawling with tourists. I heard more American voices than since we left the States. I would not want to live there.

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Lunch was fun. The food good. The conversation flowed. We went to see their apartment which they had completely renovated. Very pretty. They are right on the wall and have a view that goes for miles all the way to and past Lago Trasimeno. They have both a terrace and a garden. Lucky them. They made the two basement cantine into two bedrooms and two baths. Upstairs is a big open plan kitchen, living area and dining room.

We said farewell for now. They plan to come for about 12 weeks a year. She is not yet retired. They leave for the States tomorrow. On the way home we stopped at the Poliziano winery. It is a beautiful property, but they all are gorgeous over there. We got a couple of cases of the MUCH more expensive wine that we have in Umbria. And in my opinion no better than ours I might add.

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Soon it will be olive harvest time. I am looking forward to that.

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Grand finale 800 festival

Well, I lived to tell the tale. The ear plugs worked pretty well. After the first night we wore them. The weather was cool and rainy for the first two days which I heard, cut back on attendance. They made up for it after that!

I noticed they worked through a few themes. The Brigands play a big part and they are “headquartered” behind our apartment. Saturday night was when the Brigands actually took over the town. During the night they changed all the street signs!! Adding comments of their own. They took down the Italian banner in the center of the piazza, replacing it with their own. They did the same to the flag on the castle. They transformed the piazza bringing in hay and small trees and erecting walls across the streets. They covered all the Italian bunting under the windows with pictures of the Brigands. I was up a couple times in the night at 3:15AM and 6:15AM and they were still partying. Here is the new banner with the “runway” up to it. (BTW – our borrowed apartment is the top two left windows in the white building)

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Sunday morning we went outside to see the banner and saw there were two mannequins dressed as Brigands. They were obscene. I hope they are not too obscene for this blog! If you are a prude skip this one!

I had to do a double take on the mannequins!! and the door handle on the new door in the wall they erected (pun intended :-))

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Here are a few other pictures I took on the final evening. This is the brothel near the Brigand taverna behind our apartment.

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Here is the Taverna dei Briganti.

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These next two are of a strolling group of musicians. They were serenading a little girl who is rapt.

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Finally, here is the Briganti flag hoisted up the Castle.

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The final night Garibaldi (with his red hair) rode his palomino horse into the Piazza and saved the town from the pope! I am guessing that Garibaldi was the leader of the Brigands so it went to it’s intended conclusion. I watched the end of the otto cento celebrations from our window. There were hundred of folks in the piazza. The mayor spoke. There have been bands and others who are obviously being thanked.

This whole thing is a lot of fun and gives lots of insights into the Italians. They all do all the work for the feste to help the town. But I also think they all love the tradition so the work is not so onerous. They wholeheartedly get into the costumes and enactments. We talked to Susan and Gary over lunch on Sunday about this. Susan said they have no word for self conscious. That explains a lot.

Speaking of lunch. We took a ride in Susan and Gary’s new car, an Audi Q3. Nice. I am sure Susan will blog about the purchase (Americans in Umbria) but they told us when he brought the car home everyone in the piazza where they live came out to congratulate him and shake his hand(!)

Lunch at da Cesare over by Corciano. It was a seafood place. The seafood was excellent. Here is my octopus appetizer.

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I’ll blog about the shipment next. This has gotten a bit long!

UPakWeShip shipment arrived

The good news is that the UpakWeShip stuff arrived with no real issues in the piazza. They had off-loaded it into a tiny truck. The British truck driver called it a “clown truck”. When they pulled up there were 2 guys in the front seat and another stuffed in the back with our stuff. Ha! They had to make two trips and carried everything up for us.

The bad news is that the shipment looks to be in terrible shape. I haven’t gone through the boxes yet but they have all been opened by customs and retaped. Most have been squashed and are ripped with things poking through the cardboard. The first known casualty was our Multi-system BluRay player. We had intended to use it so brought it back to the apartment to set up. Here is what it looks like despite it being packed in the original manufacturers box.

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Squashed literally FLAT! I did purchase insurance so will pursue that. I hadn’t intended to unpack things yet but if I am going to make a claim I’ll need to just to see what other damage there is.

Otto Cento

Well, it has started. We went out and checked out all of the town. People are all about, many dressed in 1800’s costume. I had it wrong. Although otto cento DOES mean 800 it also means the 1800s as in the century. Who knew!? Anyway, that’s why they dress in costumes from that century. There were all manner of costumes. From the serving wench, the whore, the tradesmen, the brigand, beautiful women obviously from high castes and their consorts in top hats and morning coats. Many of my pictures didn’t come out because it was dark and I tried not to flash in peoples faces.

They fired the cannons!

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Musicians.

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Ballerinas from the dance school.

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Beautiful lady!

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Handsome top-hat man.

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Mary from Bar Mary!

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One of the drinking and eating venues. As you can see they are quite elaborate.

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We came back upstairs. The most rowdy group were the Brigands and the brothel people who – WHAT LUCK! – were situated right beneath our bedroom. They sang and drank and shot off guns until around 2AM. Needless to say we didn’t get a lot of sleep. AND we have that to look forward to for the next 3 nights!

SO first order of business today was… buy earplugs! Which we did. We’ll see if they help.

Today was the day our box was supposed to get delivered and it would have been a good day. Yesterday I got a call from the company saying the truck had a flat in Germany and was stuck there. He wouldn’t get here until tonight or tomorrow. I told her tonight is out of the question. And that tomorrow morning is our market. I am hoping I can persuade him to come after the market. We shall see!

Final concert and buying wine

Last night was the most amazing finale to the week of concerts we have had here. The Piazza was completely full of people. I have never seen so many. There were tables and chairs across the piazza as well. When we went down turns out they were all reserved!! Lucky for us a nice couple who were seated at a table for four invited us to sit with them. He was a policeman. They had a boxer named Brenda. I can’t remember their names. Why do I always remember the animals names but not the people?

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Once the concert got going we realized why the piazza was packed!! It was OPERA! Nothing is nearer or dearer to an Italians heart.

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I went on back upstairs to watch the rest and make a recording. After a while I noticed Luther standing in the middle of the emptiest part of the piazza waving both arms. I waved back. He started gesturing at the door. Finally I realized he didn’t have his key!! I went and let him in but I am sure the Italians had a good chuckle at the Americano. Here are two videos I took. They are kinda shaky but still you can hear the tenor. (note the dorky little girl dancing (sorta) in the second video. She is at every musical event we’ve seen. The parents just let ‘er rip.)

Today we went to buy some wine down by Lago di Trasameno. The first place was called Terre dei Carpine and was another of those places with the wine-pumps. You could get a liter for 1,35 euro in your own bottles (cheaper than gas!). Luther is getting a little better at letting 3 euro wine into his life. We bought two Chardonnays and two reds that cost about that. We have tried them out and they are quite good, not great but good everyday type wines.

The second place we went was called Castello di Magione. It is a castle on top of the hill town of Magione (hence the name). It had been a shelter run by the Knights of Malta dedicated to protecting the pilgrims on the road to/from Jerusalem or the Campostello di Santiago so they could find shelter there. The building was beautiful. We tasted a bunch of the wines and bought some but I was mostly unimpressed by them. Pictures…

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And the preparation for the Otto Cento (800) Festa is continuing. The brothel has been installed behind our house!! 🙂 It starts tomorrow. Crossing fingers for our shipment 🙁

Holiday in Umbertide

Yesterday was a gorgeous day. Blue skies and warm. We went with Susan and Gary to an agriturismo that is one of their favorites. It surely was wonderful. It is called Calagrana. The chef is pretty amazing. He is an Italian and his wife is British. They have a working farm where they raise what they make and she rents out rooms in the agriturismo. I had a wonderful chicken liver spread with tomato jam that you spread on toasted bread. Then I opted for a secondo of sliced beef perfectly grilled. This came with fried potatoes and sauteed vegetables. Luther and Susan had the roasted chicken. Afterwards Gary and Susan split the tiramisu. Here is the patio where we dined and a view from my seat across those green Umbrian hills. Lovely.

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We had a fun conversation catching up with them as they just returned from a trip to Amsterdam and Bavaria. They didn’t have very good weather and even worse food. I should say, there is good food in Germany but you need to do some research. If they ever go with us to Austria or Germany we will be sure to find good places to eat.

Today is a holiday here. I was informed that it is the day they honor the Madonna. Last night the church bells rang energetically at about 10PM. The church was lighted and now that most of the scaffolding is gone it is beautiful. There was also almost a full moon. Then I could hear mournful music. I looked and there was a procession coming from one small street and going across the piazza. They carried banners and had candles and the band played. Behind this procession came hundreds of people. The band stopped playing and all I could hear was the tread of the many feet across the silent piazza. It was almost spooky.

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Tonight we have a concert. The final one of a week of the feste. Now, all around town the people are readying for the BIG 800 fest which starts Thursday. I am enjoying watching the changes taking place.

Carsulae, San Gemini and goings on…

So we finally met up with Emanuele at the apartment after the ceiling incident of which he was aware. He found it incredibly amusing that Josephine (the one with the key who showed us the damage) only really wanted him to pay her 10 euro to clean up the dust. And even more amusing was that our downstairs neighbor came to him complaining about the construction and that she was going to the police. Emanuele explained he had all the permits. You may remember this is the same neighbor who called us banditos when we were trying to determine which meter was ours. She went to the police that day as well. After Emanuele explained he had the permits she asked about the floor in the kitchen which he had torn up. Turns out she was just trying to shake him down. She asked him to give her the wood to burn in her fireplace and she wouldn’t go to the police! He was fine with that so everyone is happy. And laughing.

Here is a picture of the pasta I made last night. It is called Bucatini number 9. It is fat spaghetti but it’s hollow! Very popular here and I like it too.

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Today we went on a day trip way down to the southern tip of Umbria to a Roman ruin called Carsulae from the 2rd century BC. There is a road called the Via Flaminia that runs from Rome to Remini. It is long! The Romans built that road. There are highways that run it’s route today. This ruin contains a small portion of the original road along with ruins of a town with a theater, forum, and amphitheater. Here are some photos. This is the road, it even has curbs and gutters and you can see the worn places where the cart wheels rolled.

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The archway entering the town. Still standing; no mortar!

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What’s left of the forum.

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We were looking for lunch and were near a town that the books said was one of the prettiest in Italy, and that’s saying a lot! San Gemini is the town. Up on a hill. We did indeed find a nice little restaurant inside the walls called Taverna del Torchhio. We sat outside. It was a beautiful day with light breezes, perfect temperature (finally) and blue skies. I had the beef carpaccio with arugula and cheese and then orecchietti with pesto and a cheese I was unfamiliar with. Luther had panzanella – the typical bread salad and then roasted lamb. All very good. Here is the view from our table.

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Here are a few pictures of the beautiful town. The first is a little walkway along the walls. The next is a 11th century church, then the courtyard outside the church and finally a passage through to the walls with the view over the valley.

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As I mentioned we are in the middle of the band festival. Last night we were treated to an orchestra with a rock group from Pisa. They even had a man and a woman who danced. It was all very wonderful. The guitarist, bass and drummer in the band were some of the best I’ve ever heard. We actually went out to the piazza to watch. Here’s a picture.

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Motivations

As you know, we are supposed to get our shipment on September 12. I just found out the big 800 feste is starting on September 11. I am pretty nervous about getting it.

I spoke with Emanuele about it and he told me to call him when they are coming and he would run interference with the police if need be. Emanuele is our “patron”. His family is now our family. They will look out after us as though we were their own. This sparked a conversation with my sister about differences between here and the US.

In Italy everything is about the network, your family first, then friends and acquaintances. The Italians are not motivated by money. Their wealth is in their influence and favors owed. Totally opposite of the US where the dollar is King. Remember in the Godfather? Everyone owed him. It was understood that he might never ask for anything in return for his favors… or he might. It is just like insurance. You may never use it. Or you might have to. The Godfather said, “If you were my friend, people would fear you”. Influence.

One never does anything alone here. You call upon your friends and family. Want to buy a car? Get friends to help. A refrigerator or TV? Same thing. Emanuele and his family are now “our” family. We are expected to ask them for help in all things. I admit I have a hard time with this. I am used to doing things on my own.

My sister asked why he would do that. How do we compensate him for this? And what do Susan and Gary get (they introduced us to this family)? She asked if he has to adopt every new client. And if they bring new obligations to him if he does.

Again, she is thinking like an American. He doesn’t expect compensation. But he knows he can ask something of us and we’d do it if we could. It is not a material thing. It is not about the money. In America it matters not who you are, as long as you have the money. Totally different mindset.

He has not asked for any money from us yet for instance. He has a lot of workers working for him at our house but I am betting they just wait until he is ready to pay them.

Yes it is a strange land. Very, very different attitudes.