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Printer, lunch & haircut

A couple of days of catching up to do here. Yesterday Susan and I took a nice long walk along the Tiber river. The weather had turned and it was fresh and cool. It was a fun walk and the time flew by.

Yesterday was also market day so we bought some fresh vegetables, wonderful aged pecorino cheese, some mortadella and salami, beautiful melons, and some more wine and one artisanal beer.

Gary called and said that he and Susan were going to the “Mall”. Susan had written about this mall in her blog and I was eager to know where it was. It is very much an American style mall anchored by a huge Coop food store and a really big Media One store with everything electronic and all appliances. In between were lots of smaller stores including a McDonalds Cafe. We were in the market for a printer which I was really missing. We got an HP. Susan got a new case for her IPhone. Hopefully bounce proof 🙂

It was lunch time just about and Susan and Gary never miss a chance for a good lunch. We went to an amazing old palazzo out in the country called Villa Taticchi in Ponte Pattoli between Umbertide and the mall. We had a glass of Prosecco in the garden and then had lunch inside. We had, to start, a fat spaghetti with an eggplant and tomato sauce and I think pistachios. Then a nice cold roast beef with arugula and shaved parmesan. Both were excellent.

We ate in last night and then went out into the piazza to enjoy some wine and Luther’s cigar. The last semi-final game in the World Cup was being played. It was between Argentina and Holland. There were two tables of Hollanders one even decked out with a headband with flags attached. Too bad, Holland lost. But it was a great game.

It rained overnight and got very cool. We decided to just hang out today but my main goal was to get my haircut. I was pretty terrified. I have seen some pretty bad hair cuts and I didn’t want to end up with one. I looked up all the possible words I would need and walked across the bridge to a shop just on the other side where Susan goes.

Well they were very, very nice and tolerant of my inability to speak Italian much. I took a picture of myself with a haircut that I liked and she did a very good job. Her name was Anna and she was the shop owner. I am SO relieved. Here is a selfie I took.

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The only other news is that I have been emailing with an American woman, Elisabeth, who lives in Spoleto and she and her husband are returning to the States in the fall. I think it’s fate because I went on the Internations site which I very seldom go to and randomly was looking around and in the Marketplace section was an ad from them about selling their furniture. I got in touch and she sent a list and prices. We plan to go down on Sunday to take a look. Also, I am looking forward to seeing Spoleto again as I have only been once a number of years ago. Susan and Gary will join us.

More renovation decisions and a visit to Citta di Castello

Today we had another meeting with Emanuele. He has used our homework list and has really worked out all kinds of options. We discussed electrical issues. He recommends dividing the house into 3 zones with 2 kilowatts of power to each zone. Not being an electrician Luther later told me that in the US a townhouse like ours had 60 Kilowatts coming in!!! In Italy it is 10 times less! I guess because power is so expensive.

We talked about air conditioning the living room. We discussed the dining room window and wall. He thinks after the winter we may decide to add some insulation to that wall. Also the window is problematic. It is pretty and a big picture window but doesn’t swing open so it will be hard to clean. He recommended sliding glass door style window. I’ll think about that.

We talked about adding track lighting in all the rooms because that will allow us to not tear up the walls too much. He talked about tiling the kitchen floor and for continuity tiling the pantry and the patio with the same tiles.

Anyway we met for about an hour and a half and our next thing will be to go with him to the lighting store, the kitchen store, and the tile store. He gave us the bad news about the timing of the construction. Because in August all of Italy pretty much closes down even if we start in July it will be well through September and into October before we’ll be able to move into the house. Not happy but nothing I can do about it.

After our meetings Luther and I decided to go out to lunch and drove up to Citta di Castello which is 18 kilometers north of Umbertide. We got there around 11:30AM and the place was really jumping. It is about double the size of our town and the centro storico is mostly walled. It has lots of little streets and some very interesting architecture.

We had brought a list of places recommended for lunch. The first one was on it’s weekly day off. The next looked pretty closed up, maybe for good. The last one was open. It was called…Trattoria Lea.

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It was OK but not notable. While we were eating lunch I asked Luther when do you think it would stop seeming like we are on vacation and begin to believe we were living here. It is very hard since we’ve traveled in Italy so many times and now – Well, we live here! But it has not sunk in yet.

Here are some places we passed by on our stroll around the city.

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Nice statue in a niche.

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Tall tower.

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Pretty street.

Meeting with our Geometra

This morning we had a meeting with Emanuelle and Antonio, his engineer. They first went up into the attic for him to check the roof. GREAT news, the roof is fine. That makes my day. Then they came down and did a lot of measuring on the patio and in the kitchen.

After Antonio left I worked with Emanuelle on the kitchen design. We came up with a very nice solution and I think I will be very happy with it. Now I need to go on the kitchen site and pick what cabinets I want. We also need to come up with a checklist of all the things we want done to include all outlets for lighting and plugs, etc.

This afternoon he will bring his electrician and plumber over to have a look at 4:30. Things are moving!

Today is Luther’s birthday. We had asked Susan and Gary to join us for lunch at an agriturismo called il Melograno about 30 minutes from here. The word means Pomegranate tree. They informed us that it was a prix fixe lunch which is fine but you know it would be multiple courses. It was good, if basic Umbrian food. To start we had a small plate of pearled faro in a donut shape. It was cool and lemony. Then an antipasti plate with so many things I can’t list them all. Some were french fries! rice ball, sweet cheese and nut ball, prosciutto, salami, small flat bread, tomato mozzarella in crunch cup with watercress, eggplant with roasted tomato – more that I can’t remember. Next was the primi or pasta course. It was ricotta stuffed ravioli with tomato sauce. Secondi was roasted pork tenderloin with salad and thin sliced sauteed potatoes. Tiramisu for dessert which only Gary had. It was good and tasty and very reasonable.

Sorry no pictures, forgot my camera!

A lovely dinner with our Geometra and his family

This was a last minute invitation that was communicated to us by Gary from Emmanuelle. His mother was making her famous cinghiale or wild boar. We were invited to join the famiglia. What fun we had!

They were such a nice family, so inclusive. There was Antoinette, the mother of Emmanuelle. Her husband, Lucio, Emanuelle and Barbara, his wife and their two boys who did not join us at the table. And of course Susan and Gary. We started with American hot dogs! they were on actual hot dog buns. They had cut the dogs in half long ways and then in half the other way. They had mustard and catsup too!. It was because it was July 4th and they knew we celebrated. They thought we would want turkey! Ha! I guess because of Thanksgiving they think all of our celebrations involve Turkey. Susan had told her no, just at Thanksgiving but for July 4th we had hotdogs and hamburgers. Hence the hot dogs! I got a nice flatbread with proscuitto. It was great. Then the main event, the cinghiale. It had been marinated and stewed until it fell apart. Lovely dish with a tomato base. Also there was a spinach and beet green vegetable dish. After that we had a nice green salad with cold green beans. Finally for dessert we had watermelon! It was perfect and light. There was much wine and the patriarch of the family brought out his home made sweet liquor. It was based on hawthorns (but I don’t know how – as far as I know hawthorns don’t have fruit) and it was very sweet, pretty potent, and very good. I had a small glass.

Well it was all just such fun. Susan and Gary said now WE are famiglia and all will be right with the world.

We walked over to the Piazza where the world cup was on and there were lots of people watching. Luther had his cigar with some grappa. Emmanuelle and Barbara came over to see their friends.

Trip to Perugia

Today we paid our electric bill and then went to Perugia to try to get our Codice Fiscale cards. We have the number that they gave us at the Embassy in DC but they also are supposed to give you little plastic cards which we did not get. Paying our bill was a new experience but turned out to be pretty easy. We just took it to our bank, wrote our account # on it and signed it and the bank paid it.

We took the Graffiti Train to Perugia.

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We walked from the station to the official building. It was all downhill. We took a number and waited.

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After about half an hour we got called. We went in to window 10. The lady there was very, very nice. We didn’t really have all we needed like copies of our passport etc. or the form filled out. She could have chucked us out but I think because Luther spoke to her in his best Italian she was charmed. Old guys speaking bad Italian are always charming! So she helped us out and we should get our cards in the mail.

Now it was time for lunch. We decided to walk back up to the top and get on the scala mobile (escalators that run underground through town). It was a hike. We found a restaurant that we had eaten at back in January. I had pasta with lemon and mint. Luther had a pizza.

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perugia_lunch

So that was all the good part. Now for the not so good. I got us lost and we missed our train! I guess that wouldn’t have been so bad but for the fact that the next one was an hour and a half later. So we sat in the waiting room. The only good thing was there were some books in English. Sort of a trading library type thing. So I picked one up.

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Waiting…waiting…

When we got back we found there was a flea market going on in town. It lasted long into the night with very loud music. They played the background music and the people in the group sang to it. Sort of like Karaoki.

umbertide_fleamarket

Market day and lunch

Today marks the anniversary of our first week here!

Today is Wednesday which is the big market day here in Umbertide. It it HUGE. In front of our apartment in the Piazza is the food part of the market. There are maybe 6 or 7 vegetable and fruit vendors, probably 5 or 6 Porchetta (whole suckling pig that they slice for you) vendors, 2 fish dealers, 3 or 4 cheese vendors (some specialize in Mozzarella di Buffala others in fresh ricotta), two flower and plant dealers. Then the market sprawls around the castle complex and there were probably 30 clothing, shoe, household goods like sheets, dealers. It was amazing. Here are pictures of the castle (first) and one of the aisles in the clothing market.

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market_day

I bought some vegetables and fruit and some little, tiny clams and calamari to make a spaghetti dish. Love those little clams. Everything was very crowded and you had to compete with a lot of people.

I ran into Michelle who I met at the Cuba Feste. She is the one taking care of the alpacas. She told me a funny story about the first morning she went out to tend them. The male had gotten in with the females. She has NO IDEA how but they were very calm after a busy night 🙂

We decided to go across the bridge to the wine shop we had visited a couple of days ago. They served lunch several days a week. They had 3 tables out front under umbrellas. The food was very good. We had some good bread with olive oil, and a couple of slices of proscuitto and cheese. Then we both had the tomato eggplant pasta. Perfectly al dente. The funny part was that both of the other tables were full of english speakers! One was all Brits. The other was a couple of American women who had been on a painting holiday in Tuscany and their friend Geoff who lives in Umbertide and is British and another man who is German. One of the women heard us speaking and came and sat right down with us and asked us where we were from. We had a nice conversation. Turns out she is from LA and the other woman lives just near the French Embassy in Georgetown in DC. Small world. I got contact info from her and Geoff. Geoff is a builder and real estate agent here. He is interested in having a website so I may have a little work from our encounter.

Another interesting day. It is warm with brilliant blue skies here right now.

An Evening at Civitella Ranieri

Our friend John sent us an email about a concert being held at Civitella Ranieri. It is a 15th century beautiful castle on top of a hill just outside of Umbertide. We decided to go last evening. Civitella Ranieri is a non-profit foundation (based in NYC) which hosts Fellows and guests who are musicians, writers or artists. Lucky Fellows! This place is magnificent and they cater to the artists every whim. The concerts are free and start with a reception with wine and snacks. Then the concerts starts around 6PM or so. They do it early because the artists go to dinner at the castle after the concert.

It was not what I expected at all. First off the castle was just amazing. Here are some pictures:

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The room where the concert was held was one of the visiting artists studios. Each artist gets a private room and bathroom and a study or studio. Here is a picture during the performance:

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There were 7 performances. They ranged from classic to extremely modern. The first one was a flutist. It involved a lot of percussive movements of the lips. Not my favorite. Next was a beautiful pair of songs played on the violin and sung by a mezzo-soprano. She had a beautiful voice full of passion. They were adapted from medieval French folk songs. I liked it. Then came a saxophone quartet. It was amazing and impossible to describe. Very modern but I liked it a lot. The next thing was a violinist. The piece was all harmonics. It was kind of “look what I can make my violin do”. It was interesting. It sounded like we were listening to the violin from a great distance. Sometimes it sounded like birds. Sometimes it reminded me of music from a film like The Exorcist. Then there was a flute and piano piece – modern too – the composer was sitting next to me. It was titled Ruin of the Cypress. Next was a pianist playing a very modern piece. Last was the mezzo-soprano and a pianist. The song was an ode to a sub-culture of Peruvian people who are oppressed. She sung it so plaintively! It made me cry.

It was a great evening and I look forward to going again soon.

Here are a couple more pictures. First is a flower in the garden and then a picture of the table set for the Fellows to eat dinner al fresco. Nice.

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We returned to the apartment and a quick dinner. Here is the sunset from the apartment. So pretty!

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Birthdays and Cuba Feste

This was Sunday so not a lot to do with house renovation or Italian paperwork. A nice break. The weather was just gorgeous.

We had been invited to lunch to celebrate Susan’s birthday. They took us to their favorite place near Deruta called Antica Forziere. It was a beautiful stone farmhouse up on a hillside. They had pretty outside tables. We dined inside and it was beautiful with vaulted ceilings. The food was wonderful. I had a beet ravioli (picture did not come out sorry!) and a veal steak that was coated in sesame seeds with an artful pile of eggplant and mozzarella. A beautiful presentation.

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I think their real claim to fame though are their desserts. The presentation is amazing with sugar “cages” and spun sugar. The first was a selections of 3 parfaits. The second is their main dessert plate meant to be shared, which we happily did!!

desserts

dessert

We returned to Umbertide for a rest to let that lunch settle and digest. This evening was the Arts on the Piazza and later in the evening there was the Cuban Feste. Don’t ask me why Cuban or what the relevance to Umbertide is but we enjoyed it. As Susan said, it is very disorganized but oh well! First we sat at a table at Cafe Centrale and shared it with a bunch of British folks who live around here. One of the women owns an alpaca farm. She lives in Umbertide and the farm is on the way to Montone. She is going on a 10 week vacation so has another woman who will be taking care of the animals and house etc. The housesitter lives a rather peripatetic lifestyle. Most recently she’s been living in Cyprus which she liked very well. She also lived in Bermuda, Georgia (US) and I forget the rest. I liked her. I hope to see her around because the house is just behind us.

The Feste was both funny and good. First they had a bunch of the local children dressed up in costumes who danced (badly). There was a Tango demonstration and the two dancers were very good! Also a group of Ecuadorians in costume danced. There also had been lots of World Cup cheering from the two bars. I was pretty ready to turn in by this time and since our window is up above the piazza I could watch from there. Joseph and Paul showed up after picking up a friend in Rome who flew over from San Francisco. Her plane was late so they didn’t arrive until the end. It was good to see them.

After we went upstairs the main event started on the stage below. A very good Cuban Salsa band. I was impressed but it was VERY loud. Here are a couple of pictures:

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Updates

Yesterday we visited Francesca who will be helping us to get our gas and water contracts situated and our permesso started. She also helps with whatever we need so I have sent her numerous questions about things like bed sizes. They are not the same as in the US. Our mattress in our apartment seems too small for the platform. I am fine with making that our guest mattress but don’t know the sizes here. She can help.

Today we had coffee in the piazza with John and Libby, Americans who live in the hilltown near here called Montone. I have conversed with John for a long time and it was great to meet them! It was a beautiful morning and the Saturday market, which is more local producers was in full swing.

Next we decided to find another pet shop in Perugia. We plugged in the address into the GPS and it sent us right. Through. The. Middle. Of. Perugia (!) OK well we managed it and found a good tree for the cats to pick. On the way back the GPS took us through the middle of nowhere (I think she is schizophrenic). Lots of hiking trails, mountains, parks and we even found the Strada del Vino for Lago Trasameno. We stopped in a lovely winery/agriturismo and bought a couple of bottles. When we brought the cat tree to the flat they immediately, enthusiastically started to pick it. Happy days! They are very good about not picking furniture as long as we provide an alternative.

We ate lunch in and dinner out. The dinner was great, we sat outside and the weather was perfect, but way too much food! We ended up out in the Piazza for wine and grappa and Luther’s cigar. The Piazza is amazing. So much is happening from the old men playing briscola (Italian card game), to the little kids on bikes and chasing pigeons, to the table full of Brits to the 15 or so people watching the world cup. All this at around 10PM. Luther and I just looked at each other and agreed this is what we wanted. Our town is not that picturesque but it is a “real” Italian town with authentic activities. Yay, we love it.

Back to the flat to bed. Speaking of the flat. It has air conditioning but it has not been so hot that we have to use it. At night I open the windows on both ends of the living area and put the fans in and they pull in the cool overnight air. I shut the door to the zona di notte and we and the cats stay in there. I am afraid to let the cats get into the windows even though there are screens. We do sun management with the shutters, closing them when the sun is coming in and opening them when it passes on overhead. Then closing the back one in the afternoon. Works pretty well. I see we are headed for a streak of very hot weather so we shall see if we decide to use the AC. The cats with their long hair do suffer in the heat.

Tomorrow we are celebrating our friend Susan’s birthday at an agriturismo for lunch. There is an Arts on the Piazza in the afternoon and then there will be a group of us getting together for dinner. It should be fun!

Buonanotte!

The journey is accomplished – part 2

We still had to lug three 40+ pound bags up 4 flights. We decided to take them to our own apartment and unload only what we needed to Susan and Gary’s apartment. We got a chance to look around our apartment. It was as charming as I remembered. I know we will be happy there once we get everything done. Here are some more pictures of the empty apartment:

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Living Room – where the sofa will be. Those bookshelves need to be removed.

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Other end of the room where the dining table is.

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Office room

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Guest bedroom

kitchen
Existing kitchen.

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Patio view to the Tiber river.

We showered and changed clothes and went out to Bar Mary and enjoyed a relaxing beer on the Piazza. There was a thunderstorm brewing so we hurried over to Susan and Gary’s house where we enjoyed a chat and a bottle of red wine. By the time we were finished the rain had stopped.

So the end of the arduous journey and onward to the new adventure!