Category Archives: everyday life in Umbria

Covid-19 Phase 2, Day 2️⃣

211,938 positives in Italy. Up 0.6% – 29,079 total deaths since beginning of the outbreak.

There are 1,394 positive cases in Umbria. 70 total deaths. No new cases!

1,172,670 cases in the US – 68,326 deaths.
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Tonight’s dinner was also courtesy of Calagrana. Wonderful farro salad with seafood and a balsamic drizzle. Oh my god. It was sooooo good. There were tons of shrimps, octopus, mussels, squid. We really enjoyed it! Thanks Calagrana!

LOOK at this! Mmmmm.

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New day! I went for a walk with my friend, Susan. Because I CAN! What freedom. How sweet it is! She met me outside and we walked upriver since she hadn’t been on my side of the river in months. I say my side because both she and I live along the river. The town walls go along the river and houses are built into the walls. We live at kind of the ends of the walls at opposite sides of town.  

So we walked along turning down the path which runs behind my house to the river. There is an apartment with two big sliding glass doors right next to Bar Mary. I had wondered if it was the apartment of the artist who had passed away a couple of years ago. So I asked Susan. It is a lovely looking space. It has  pretty white modern furniture inside, not typical. It is also where the little Jack Russel terrier lives that I see out with a nice looking gray haired man. I know this because I’ve seen him sitting in the windows. The dog is never on leash when outside so he’s noticeable.  And if you see the man, the dog can’t be far away.

Anyway, the window on the left was open to the outside air. The other window was curtained. As we stood there discussing this stuff suddenly the curtains were pushed back and there stood the man in is black bikini underwear!! Oh my! Susan and I quick started walking behind the hedge. I’m sure he was as surprised as we were! Hah!

We headed up the river and before long came to a long row of fishermen. I’m sure they were happy to be out fishing for the first time, and I’m sure their wives were equally as happy to have them finally out of the house! We turned into the fields away from the long poles blocking our way — away from the river.

This took us out among the farms. I snapped a couple of pictures of the typical farms.  These farms are comprised of big fields, newly planted in corn, wheat, sunflowers or tobacco. The farmhouses sit among the fields and are surrounded by fenced in growing areas with a few grapevines, usually enough to make wine to get the family through the seasons until the new harvest. Also small orchards of fruit trees, large gardens of vegetables for eating and canning for the winter,  chicken coops with lots of types of poultry. Of course pens of sad hunting dogs living their lives in, what I consider, horrible conditions. A friend says it is all they’ve ever known so they live and die in the pens. In the fall they are let out to hunt. Until they are too old or don’t do their job well and are disposed of. It is a sad fact of life here — the old ways don’t change. Of course there are also the pet dogs, and many, many cats and kittens in the yards. These yards are immaculately groomed with ornamental bushes, trees, paths, eating pavilions, etc. Anyway, these two pictures are of the typical farms outside of Umbertide. We can see them from our apartment in the distance.

This house was really enormous.
Vegetable garden in the foreground. Vineyard behind.

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Tomorrow is our newly revived, if abbreviated, mercato.  It will be a bit of new excitement for Umbertidese. I will be reporting on it tomorrow…

Stay safe everyone…🌈

Covid-19 Phase 2, Day 1️⃣

210,717 positives in Italy. Up 0.7%- 28,884 total deaths since beginning of the outbreak.

There are 1,394 positive cases in Umbria. 68 total deaths.

1,154,621  cases in the US – 67,451 deaths.
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You may have noticed I’ve changed the title of my post this time to a new marker point. The first day of Phase 2 of the lockdown. We will have a good number of new freedoms. One is we can leave our Comune (Umbertide)… But we must stay in our region (Umbria). It feels like the whole world to me! Wow.

We got our weekly delivery from Calagrana. Ely added a couple of cute little loaf cakes. I tasted in and it tasted JUST like a Fig Newton cookie! I shared the other one with Joseph and Paul, dropping it on their steps. Also got a whole bunch of veggies, the sweetest strawberries, oranges, I see a fruit salad in my future! While delivering the cake, I stopped to take a few pictures around town. Beautiful day!

I’ve always wondered. This church steeple houses the four bells that ring our time out all day, and for our masses. It seems to not be a part of a church. It is above some stores. I don’t know the story.
Our 15th century Colligiata. Our main church, largely unused during the crisis. But I note the door is open…
I just happened to notice this cool little window down near where we park…
I guess I missed the black laundry day memo.

I thought this evening of having a spritz on the Piazza with Luther. A springtime ritual…and tears came to my eyes at how much we have lost 🥺 I guess in time, we will be able to do this again. Spero di si.
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Dinner last night. It was a new Calagrana plan. Pre-packaged ingredients to cook your own dinner. Instructions provided. We had tagliata with arugula, tomatoes with cheese shavings along with roasted potatoes. Very yum. The quality of the ingredients is key! These were excellent.

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You’ve probably notice I write my blogs on two days. I start right after I publish one post, and then continue with my thoughts during that day, and the next day I add anything new thoughts about the new day.

So now I am in a new day. The first day of actual Phase 2. Monday, May 4. This morning I woke to the noise of the construction equipment building some building behind us along the river. It has been silenced for these 2 months. I must say, they certainly wasted no time starting again! During the night I could hear the increased traffic on the nearby super strata. This morning, I stood on the terrace and realized how much I would miss the complete silence and the birdsong. 

There are many people out in the Piazza. We spotted joggers by the river. And walkers. The two bars in the piazza have reopened I’m told. I haven’t been down yet. Luther said it’s not allowed but I’m told it is up to the Comune to decide. So I guess ours said it’s Ok. There is a limit of number of people coming in. 

I admit it makes me nervous. Very nervous. Is it a new day dawning? Or can we just look forward to new lockdowns with a new wave? Only time will tell.
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Stay safe my friends! 🌈

Day 60 – Covid-19

205,463 positives in Italy. Up 0.9%- 27,967 total deaths since beginning of the outbreak.

There are 1,392 positive cases in Umbria. 67 total deaths. Better today. Only up one case and one death.

1,094,640 cases in the US – 64,324 deaths.
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So, is this a milestone? I mean 60 days since I started writing these daily journals! Wow. Who would have thought.

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Yesterday morning I dumped the trash and did a few errands. Last stop was Angelo’s alementari. He’s a nice man. I was greeted with “Buongiorno Bella Donna!” Now how could any woman not love to be greeted that way? And I love how the Italians say it. It’s not bella donna all mooshed together. No. It is a pretty sing-song BEL-la DON-na! Italians pronounce all their letters so the two Ls and the two Ns are precisely said. Anyway. Sweet Angelo.💕
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I’ve been reading about the growing protests in the US about government interference. It seems people think the government is infringing on their rights but in reality the government is trying to save lives in the only way they know at this time. And that is to keep people home. It’s not about “rights” it’s about your health, and your friends and families health which, in the end is more important than your job. Or your “right” to congregate. And have fun. If you persist in this inane activity you may well see a sign at the hospital when you or your family member needs care for the virus like this…

Oh, I am so sorry! The hospital is full.
There is no room for you.
Maybe you should have stayed home?

Trump tweeted Friday that “these are very good people, but they are angry. They want their lives back again, safely!” 😳 I’m sure they want their lives back. I do too. But if they do it this way they may not live long to enjoy their lives.

I guess we just wait and see if the states persist.
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This made me sad…

In the early weeks of Italy’s outbreak there was a sense of hope and optimism.

Italians gathered in their windows and balconies to sing together and say “Andrà tutto bene” – everything will be alright.

But as the number of dying continued to escalate, hope faded.

The singing stopped, shutters stayed closed.

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Our Sunday is beautiful if a bit windy. Luther did the Calagrana pickup duty. What a haul! I also used up the rest of last weeks veggies to make a nice vegetable curry. I’d never made one before. Makes a good lunch. I just wished I’d had some yogurt.
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This is the prettiest Iris I’ve ever seen. Such a deep purple. Thanks Jill.
More Lilacs from Tom!

So this is day 1️⃣. Last day of phase one. Wow. There is much activity all around. All the bars and restaurants are gearing up for some kind of opening. It must be take-out. Not sure how that will work for a bar. FOXX is going to start doing take-out. And Nonna Gelsa, a nearby restaurant will do both take out and delivery. Bar Centrale is getting ready and so is Bar Mary! I just love the commotion. Tomorrow we will see what has happened! Exciting!

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No matter what happens in your state, neighborhood, town or country. Use your head and be careful! 🌈

Day 59 – Covid-19

205,463 positives in Italy. Up 0.9%- 27,967 total deaths since beginning of the outbreak.

There are 1,392 positive cases in Umbria. 67 total deaths. Better today. Only up one case and one death.

1,094,640 cases in the US – 64,324 deaths.
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Here is some news that makes me very sad. People can’t decide, to stay home, for their own safety without risking losing their jobs, insurance and LIVES. It is so wrong. The message to workers is ‘endanger your life or starve.’
For example…Headline —
Republican-led states signal they could strip workers’ unemployment benefits if they don’t return to work, sparking fresh safety fears.

I read an article about Louisiana and how people didn’t understand the seriousness. And I say… NO. You cannot have backyard cookouts with your friends! How do you think this thing spreads!?😳

Sorry to get on my soapbox again. I can’t help it.

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Suddenly, I have an overwhelming desire to go out to lunch at a favorite restaurant. 😢 Sometimes, it just overwhelms me. I cry for our losses of freedom. And our people. Will I ever be able to dine casually among friends again in my lifetime? I don’t want to face the possibility that I won’t. It is/was one of life’s pleasures.
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I got an email promotion from United Airlines. We have been frequent fliers with them for years because their hub is Dulles Airport in DC from which we normally flew. It also has the only direct non-stop flight from Dulles to Rome. Just in the summer months. Anyway, the promotion offers flights that can be changed or canceled without a fee. And you can reschedule for anytime in the next 12 months. I would have to check the fine print on what that last bit means. So, the question is, am I an optimist or a pessimist? 😏 I thought of booking a flight to the US next spring. Which, I hope, could be extended up to a year. I could also move it forward if things were better for travel. I’ve got until May 31 to decide. Tough one!

I really, in my heart of hearts, don’t think travel will be better in 2021.  People on the Facebook groups I follow (Living in Italy and Americans Living in Italy) are always asking for other people’s opinions on when they can come to Italy. These groups, contrary to their names, have many members who DON’T live here. But are wannabes and dreamers. Or part-time residents with second homes. I want travel to open soon too. 25% of Italy’s economy is tourism. So the sooner the better. But they/we must be very cautious.
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Its a gray Saturday. But it is supposed to get sunny and temperatures up to 24C which is quite warm. We have to take the trash out (again). It never stops! There is a bag of biodegradable waste down in the hall that is stinking up the whole building! Plus a trip to the farmacia and the ATM machine are necessary. All of his is just downstairs so not a problem. Luther is still counting down the days. Today is day 2️⃣ until Phase 2 begins! Jogging here he comes! 
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Now for some pictures from the properties of two friends. Tom and Carol and Jill and Stuart. They live in opposite parts of our nearby area on two different mountaintops. And they have gorgeous properties. I picked a few that I liked. I hope you do too 😌

Lilac has always been one of my favorites. I love the aroma and the blooms. Feriamo is the property name.
Look at this sky at Tom and Carols place! Wow.
From Jill. It is called Tradescantia. Such striking small flowers with fantastic rich colours.The plant gets is name from the British plant collector of the 17th century John Tradescant.
From Jill. She says it is a scarce swallowtail. They are actually quite common!

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Enjoy your weekend as best you can, safely. Have a cookout on your deck, patio or yard…and enjoy a glass of vino! 🌈🍷

Day 58 – Covid-19

205,463 positives in Italy. Up 0.9%- 27,967 total deaths since beginning of the outbreak.

There are 1,392 positive cases in Umbria. 67 total deaths. Better today. Only up one case and one death.

1,056,402 cases in the US – 61,867 deaths.
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It is a really pretty day with brisk breezes and alternately angry skies with blue ones. And the sunlight dapples in patches which makes the brightly lit greens pop from the shadowy dusky greens. I took a picture and you can see what I mean. It is out of our big picture window in the living room. We have such a bucolic view out the back. Very pastoral. It is one of the things I love about how this apartment is situated. City and country views. Busy (normally) or tranquil. These farm fields are where Luther jogs, and I used to walk. After Monday, we will be free to do that again. Luther has gotten a bit observant of the seasons, while passing the busy farmers at their duties, as he jogs. 🙂

The low hill in the middle ground of the picture has a castle on top. Just behind that hill, and in front of the higher hills, is the mouth of the Niccone valley which is one of the prettiest around. The Tiber River is curving along that far line of trees just in front of the small hill/mountain.

Our small auxiliary cat, Simba decided he would show off his only asset. His cute factor. Here he is on his heated pillow. He is one happy cat in this lockdown. His staff is home 24/7. He has no problems at all!

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Stay safe everyone! 🌈

Day 57 – Covid-19

203,591 positives in Italy. Up 1%- 27,682 total deaths since beginning of the outbreak.
There are 1,391 positive cases in Umbria. 66 total deaths. I am moderately worried about these numbers. The number of cases went up 9 yesterday and 11 today. This is NOT good people!

1,030,487 cases in the US – 60,207 deaths. Over a million cases 😢
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Day 4️⃣ of our countdown to May 4 – phase 2 begins. Today begins our third month…yes THIRD month, of total lockdown and self isolation.
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US news…
I read there was an executive order issued to get people back to work and out buying stuff, like before…But I am thankful to read this…

“Plans for a swift reopening of malls, factories and other businesses accelerated Tuesday, but they quickly collided with the reality that persuading workers and consumers to overlook their coronavirus fears and resume their roles in powering the U.S. economy may prove difficult.”

People need to listen to their heads and hearts speaking to them. If you are afraid to go back out, then you feel that way for a reason. Don’t let anyone pressure you. It affects not only you, but anyone you come in contact with to include your friends and loved ones. And it can be life or death. It’s no small thing!

I for one, who have been tightly, much more tightly than the US, locked-down for over 2 months, will be exercising real caution if I go out.. And when they say I can freely roam, I will be very wary. I will be extremely careful. I still will not go out unless I, one, feel safe, and two, feel there’s a good reason.  Make no mistake. This virus is coming back. And when it does they say it will be worse than the first time.
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Our House Martins returned in March to begin raising their families. They have expanded their condominium above our office window. I believe the previous year offspring build their houses next to Mom and Dad. I love to watch them swoop in, in a graceful arc, and then, almost immediately swoop away. They are a little messy, but I love them. And they are super beneficial. They eat tons of insects and there are thousands of them. These old building have deep eaves and beams that stick out, perfect house sites for them 🙂

Two nests made from mud.

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A friend posted this English lesson. “All the faith he had had had had no affect on the outcome of his life.” Try to explain that to a non-English speaker. I note, it is important to inflect for meaning and also pause in the right place. And I thought Italian was bad! Hah!
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Big news! I glanced out our window to the Piazza today and noticed they have marked off areas in white paint. Corners are marked off for six spaces. Each has a number. There are two large spaces and four smaller ones with what look like about 2 meter aisles between. It can only mean that next week we will have a reduced market. Happy days! It will be very different from the vibrant, crowded market we used to have 😢 But it is a baby step forward. I told Luther, I don’t care so much for the Wednesday market to return. I’m more interested in the Saturday local one. I fervently hope they will return Saturday after next. 🤞

Market coming back maybe….

More beauty from Jill’s giardino. 😍

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Stay safe everyone! Don’t jump the gun and negate all your hard work! 🌈

Day 56 – Covid-19

201,505 positives in Italy. Up 1.1%- 27,359 total deaths since beginning of the outbreak. These numbers are so encouraging!
There are 1,379 positive cases in Umbria. 65 total deaths.

1,004,908 cases in the US – 57,812 deaths. Over a million cases 😢
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For dinner yesterday we had a lovely farro salad with mozzarella and cherry tomatoes with a pesto drizzle. Very good…and…I forgot to take a picture again!
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A mundane post since not much is happening…today is day 5️⃣ of the countdown to May 4 and some few more freedoms. It also a rainy day but we have a few patches of blue sky. It is chilly enough that we are using the stufa to warm the living room. It’s cozy. 

We also did some cleaning around here. We are accumulating an enormous pile of trash so we will need to deal with that. Also I talked to our friend Vera. She is missing us, and we, her. She’s tired of being cooped up with her family! She had an anniversary and made a big seafood dinner for the whole family. She said it had been two months since she’d had fish! It looked scrumptious. For lack of any photo of my own, here is her dinner.

She also “said” she is coming on May 6 to see us and clean our house. Yay if she can. Technically she can’t come here because she lives in Tuscany. There is this small piece of Tuscany that sticks out into Umbria in the Niccone valley. It would be hard for them to stay in their own Comune (Cortona) because they are separated by rugged mountains. It is far more reasonable for them to come here. Now, if she can convince the police she has to come for work…maybe. But I’m doubtful. I hope she’s careful!

Jill says the white antirrhinum is a favorite of hers and it flowers ALL summer, what a bonus.
The peonies going from strength to strength …so showy.

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5️⃣ days…have a nice day and stay safe…and home! 🌈

Day 55 – Covid-19

199,414 positives in Italy. Up 0.9% – 26,977 total deaths since beginning of the outbreak. These numbers are so encouraging!
There are 1,370 positive cases in Umbria. 65 total deaths.

980,008 cases in the US – 55,637 deaths.
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Last night we enjoyed a vegetable curry with rice, naan, and yogurt sauce. It was one of my favorites from Ely at Calagrana. I forgot to take a picture!
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It is a gray, dreary day today. We are doing some needed house cleaning. Ugh. I forgot to say I cleaned the very top shelves of all the upper cabinets yesterday. Next the bottom shelves.
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We are fairly sure we have figured out the actual new rules from the proclamation that Conte gave on Sunday, to take effect on May 4. We had hoped we would be free to travel around the whole region of Umbria freely. Hold your horses. Not yet. Turns out we still can only travel for one of four reasons. Work, emergency, medical, or visit close relatives. The last one is new. There are only a couple of other things new. One, and most important to Luther, he can again jog. Two, I can again walk and we can walk with two people with distancing. Three, we can shop together again. Four, the restaurants can do carry-out, not just delivery as before. Four, people can visit, but not stay in, second homes. Presumably to check on them.

We have a long way to go to freedom. But it is something. I read Conte had wanted to loosen up more but the Scientists said it would be a big mistake (wow, listening to experts! How unusual!) And, after how bad Italy has had it I understand erring on the side of caution. I wouldn’t want to squander all the hard work we’ve done (and believe me, sheltering in place is not easy!) so we will soldier on with no complaints.

Not much more going on on this gray Tuesday. Here are a couple of Jill’s pretty flowers. They brighten my day if only in a photo!

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Stay safe everyone…🌈

Day 54 – Covid-19

197,675 positives in Italy. Up 1.2% – 26,644 total deaths since beginning of the outbreak.
There are 1,368 positive cases in Umbria. 64 total deaths.

961,983 cases in the US – 54,400 deaths. 
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Sunday night dinner, prawn salad with Harissa dip. Thank you Calagrana! So good. Luthers favorite.

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US news…
”The resumption of public life is poised to accelerate across wide areas of the country in the coming days and weeks — mostly in Republican-governed states and despite warnings from health experts as Covid-19 cases in the United States near 1 million. You’ll be able to eat out at a restaurant in Tennessee starting tomorrow, potentially congregate in an Idaho church next week and go shopping in Missouri next week”
Face palm.
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I also read the epidemic has begun to move outside of the major Metropolitan areas where it has been prevalent until now, into small towns, small cities, and rural areas. Places where there will be more difficulty dealing with due to lack of facilities.
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Such a perfect day here today. Here are a few of my own flowers and herbs on my terrace. Also one of the view. It has gotten so green!

Sage in the upper left survived the winter. Just below it is the regrowing tarragon my friend Joanne brought me from Germany. Tarragon is not a “thing” here. Happy it’s coming back. And that’s mint on the right.
My new oregano is happy! Old rosemary behind. It will probably renew but I am considering replanting.
Chives. Cipollina.
I don’t know what this is but it is so pretty, and very purple. My friend Rosemarie will like my terrace this year. Much purple.
This is rhododendron. It is never blue. How do I help it be blue?
Is this GREEN or what?! Since just a week or so ago. I adore it.

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Today is day 7️⃣ until the loosening for us prisoners here. We are all looking forward to a small bit of freedom. At least to walk and jog. If not much else. 🌈

Day 53 – Covid-19

195,351 positives in Italy. Up 1.2% – 26,384 total deaths since beginning of the outbreak.
There are 1,366 positive cases in Umbria. 62 total deaths.

926,442 cases in the US – 53,184 deaths. These numbers are really climbing…
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Yesterday marked the anniversary of the 1945 fall of Mussolini’s Italian Social Republic and the end of the Nazi occupation in Italy. 

BUONA FESTA DELLA LIBERAZIONE – HAPPY LIBERATION DAY ITALY! 

April 25 is a national holiday in Italy commemorating the liberation of Italy from Nazi occupation and the fascist regime in 1945, accomplished largely by Italian organized insurrections in major cities and the advancing American and British armies. 

It’s a public holiday across Italy, with government offices and schools closed and lots of festivities, flags and parades!  ……

……But not in 2020. 😢
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I made a blueberry cake today. I have to admit, it’s pretty ugly! But it tastes good!

Last night we had a low hanging crescent moon, evening star, and the dusky sunset over the river. Not the best photo.

Sunday. Beautiful Sunday. It was my turn to go pick up our delivery from Calagrana. We’ve got this down to a science now. We carry the trash down to the bottom of the steps for throw away after drop off of food in car. Drive trash to parking lot and park. Dispose of trash. Return home on foot. But first, I had to do the pickup. I had my Autodeclarazione. My sunglasses, my mask…off I went. I came around the corner to the road that crosses the Tiber river. On the bridge sat a police car in the middle of the road. He had his window open and was talking to the person in another car that was stopped. I hesitated. Figured I couldn’t wait so went on ahead. The other car left and the police car stayed in the center so I moved over to the to pass to the right. I opened my window and his was open. Quickly I pulled up my mask. He said “salve” I said “Buongiorno”. He said “come stai?” I said “bene, bene”. I asked if he needed to see my Autodeclarazione. He nodded. He read my name out loud…Nancy Gilmer Hampton…pronouncing my middle name with a soft G like George. I volunteered I was American and lived in Umbertide. He asked what I was doing in Umbertide? It is the question we always get. I didn’t laugh…I explained I was retired and liked Italy. He smiled and let me go on my way. Ely, from Calagrana had watched the whole thing from the other end of the bridge where she was waiting. Well, it wasn’t so bad. I understood everything he said, and I replied in Italian. He seemed a little amused, but that was OK. 

So I picked up our boxes and returned, disposed of the trash, and washed all my items scrupulously. To include my hands! Mission accomplished for this week.

The upcoming week should be our last of the full lockdown we’ve endured for nearly  8 weeks. May 4, one week from tomorrow we will have the rules loosened. Jogging, walking with Luther along the river will be allowed. Leaving our Comune for another part of Umbria will be allowed. Luther is happily counting down the days.☺️. The US has farther to go since we here in Italy started much sooner than you did. We here in Italy have stayed the course and slowed the plague. Stay safe wherever you are! and hang in.  I know it is hard. 🌈