I am sure you all know I am taking one-on-one lessons in Italian every week. We are now using a book called L’italiano per la cucina. It is at the B1 level and focuses on the traditional cucine of Italy.
Today’s lesson was on the traditional recipe for Spaghetti Carbonara. The legend goes that the origin of the dish was from when the American soldiers during WWII were occupying Rome. They had rations provided but to make them more interesting the soldiers gave them to local restaurants and asked they make a pasta using the ingredients. The rations had powdered eggs, bacon and cream. Carbonara was the result. The traditional recipe now does not include cream. [there are other legends about the origin of the dish, but this one is the most accepted]
I got so hungry during the lesson I was nearly drooling. SO…tonight I just HAD to make the recipe. It is super easy. Only four ingredients. Guanciale or pancetta, egg yolks, pecorino cheese and spaghetti or rigatoni. I whipped it up and it was delicious.
Hi all. I thought I’d do this little addendum to my post today. I should have included the contact information for the store we went to. It is called Luigi Filippo Bastianelli . It is in the town of San Giustino. It is north of Città di Castello and south of Sansepolcro. I had several folks ask for this. Of course all y’all in far away places don’t need this but this is for those who live nearby.
The electrician did come to install our lights on Friday, right on time. He came with the father, and owner of Sideform, the company that we dealt with to buy all our lights back when we had the house renovated. I think the older man just wanted to make sure all was well and the electrician knew what he needed to do. He installed the two lighting fixtures. I don’t think I will ever get used to how little these tradespeople charge. I am so used to paying through the nose in the US. I was prepared to pay this guy €80-100 euro. I asked him what we owed. He answered €30.
On Monday we had luck finding pellets for the stufa. It was where we used to buy pellets a couple years ago. The price of pellets has gone up 300% since last year. What cost €5 for a 15 kilo bag now costs €14. We were just glad to find some.
We are having the usual November rains now and I am happy to report the gutters are still draining well and consequently no drips inside. That fix cost more than I would have thought but it was very involved and dangerous too so we were glad to pay it. Especially since Fabio and Mario were so very responsive.
We now have an appointment with a Trasloco company in Perugia. They are coming Monday to give us an estimate for our move. They have the trucks and the equipment we will probably need to get out of this apartment, to include trucks with elevator cranes which go to the upstairs windows and move things out that way. Some of our furniture will not go down the stairs. This company is Traslocchi Zucconi. I am sure this will be quite the show for the old gent card players at Bar Mary when the Americani move house.
This morning I had a fun outing with our buyers to a furniture store. Mostly old furniture or repurposed old wood made into new furniture. The place is a huge jumble. It is really too much to take in. The eye bops from here to there and just cannot register everything.
We all loved this table. It is a pasta making or patisserie making table. It has a marble top and then there is a wooden top that slides out and was used to make pasta. It even has a place to store the rolling pin! Sophia, one of the family members told us her mom has one like it. She said that every kitchen used to have one.
Christie and Jane love the idea of a drop leaf so they can put it to the side in the dining room and save space. We loved this one but it was defective from birth we were told. Not sturdy… very wobbly, but so pretty.
I wasn’t intending to buy anything, but I loved this table. Narrow but long and versatile so it will work in our upstairs space. Very nice bones and pretty wood. It is the center table in the picture. The one with the rounded ends. It is even pegged rather than nailed. They will keep it for me until we move. I will buy chairs there as well. I want mismatched ones. They had some nice woven seat ones I liked.
Jane and Christie bought a beautiful console to hold their TV in the living room. It is a new piece made from recycled old wood. I wish I had taken a picture. It will be perfect in that space. I love these junk shops. I have my eye on some of the blanket chests. They are seating in a bedroom and great for storage of, well, blankets! There is also a nice white wood room divider I like. It would be nice on the top floor of our new house to divide the area where we will put a sofa bed to make it more private. But it can be folded, or used elsewhere. It is in the picture above next to the wobbly table.
It is always fun to shop for a new house. I need to wait to buy a lot more since I need to be there to get a real feel for it. I am a nester so I must nest. And nest I will! Ciao a tutti!
It is official. We are now squatters in our former home. Jane and Christie came over, we had wine and toasted their new ownership. They did some measuring. It is definitely bittersweet for me, but I am very happy friends of mine will be enjoying this sweet space. Later Luther and I popped the champagne he bought. We toasted to our new adventure yet to come. 🙂
Today, Saturday, was a bit gray, dreary and chilly. I went out to the market to do some shopping where I bought quite a lot of stuff for soups and salads. I noted we have a new bread kiosk which I must try. But today I visited our local forno for bread.
My haul.
Our friends from Spello, who moved here in July, were coming up for lunch at C’era una Volta, a restaurant near our new apartment. The name means Once Upon a Time. But first an aperitivo in the Piazza was in order. We sat at a table and Jane happened by so we invited her to join us. Then Jim (our realtor) and four other Brits sat at the table next to us. Bar Mary is always the place to meet and greet.
We headed down to the restaurant. We pointed out our new apartment on the way. I actually love C’era una Volta. It is only one block from our new apartment so I anticipate it will become our go-to place. The people are so friendly. I think they are Sardinian. Mom, dad, and daughter. We got the names of Mom, Laura, and Dad, Giuseppe. Next time, daughter. The food is quite good. They have a menu but the specials are recited. It is a real language and memory test! Here are pictures of our food.
Our shared antipasto plate. Amazing variety.Delicious, made in the house, pasta with zucca (winter squash/pumpkin), prosciutto, and funghi (mushrooms).
We had such a nice time catching up with Roselyne and Steve. They are renovating their apartment right in the historic center of Spello. Excellent location with three terraces, one of which is right over the main drag up the hill so they can see what is happening all the time. Much like our view of our Piazza. It is ALL good! We will see them again soon!
When I got home I snapped yet another photo from our terrace…our last Autumn here. I want to always remember this view.
A little later I looked up and was greeted with an amazing sunset! It doesn’t get any better!
First I want to mention that we had a good hard rain Thursday night/Friday morning last week. First rain in weeks. I was up checking the gutters and all looked fine. Draining, no more waterfalls. And best of all, no leaks inside. Whew. Glad to have gotten that done thanks to Fabio and Mario. Excellent workers in a difficult situation. ~~~~~~~ Our friends and buyers of our apartment, had a bit of a mishap. Jane fell off her bike hitting her chin and cheekbone on the ground and breaking her thumb. She and Christie walked over to the Pronto Soccorso (emergency room) where they gave her a temporary cast and made an appointment to visit an orthopedic doctor in Citta di Castello yesterday. Meanwhile, our signing of the Powers of Attorney was scheduled for Tuesday.
We did manage to get the signing done, even with Jane’s right, and main, hand in a cast. It was somewhat amusing. The Notaio’s office is in a former Palazzo built in the 1600s. It is just next to an enormous green space which Jim told us it was once the main Piazza of Castello, and a formal garden. Now it is just an immense lawn. The office is just as I remember it. Grand but threadbare in a pleasing way. I took a couple photos.
Ceiling. Probably 20 feet high.Ornate door into the room.Cool fireplace, obviously unused.
So, Jim can now sign for Christy and Jane to close on the apartment. And he can close for us on our new place. That way we don’t need a translator. Saves a bit of money. The deal is not quite sealed…but a step closer.
Because we weren’t sure what they would do at the hospital in Castello I drove them up for the appointment. We went to the hospital and found the orthopedic department where Jane was seen pretty quickly. But she had to endure the pain of resetting her thumb…no anesthetic. The norm here. She said is was REALLY painful. Then they put on a cast and we went to get an X-ray to see how the set was. It took us 45 minutes to FIND the Radiology department. They are very short on signage. On the good side, we got our steps in. 🫤 We returned to the orthopedic docs who viewed the X-rays and told us to make an appointment to come back in a week. Making the appointment at the ASL (Azienda Salute Locale).
To give ourselves a reward for our ordeal…more for Jane than Christie and I, we decided to have lunch! We tried a new place called Grace. It opened in the space where Patrick’s Enoteca used to be. It is a bit of a sad story. Grace was the wife of the chef. She was a 28 year old American. She and her husband were involved in an accident in which she was killed. The restaurant was opened in her name.
We had a delicious lunch. They have half portions of almost everything, so we decided to do three half portions each. It was a lot of fun. Here are some pictures.
Zucchini carpaccio with walnuts.My ravioli with black truffles Jane and Christie got this zucca stuffed pasta. Zucca is the big orange winter squash they have here.Inside – mmmm.The zucca main course Jane had. She and Christie are vegetarians.Being an equal opportunity eater I tried the venison. I eat a lot of vegetarian but like to try meats too.
This week we also got our guy to come to arrange to replace two window screens, the electrician is coming to replace two lights, and Luther had a hearing test today. I gotta say…I am OVERWHELMED at all the progress we are making! So un-Italian! 🙂💕 Ciao a tutti!
It was socked in with fog this morning, as is usual for this time of year. It was also the coldest it has been, 4C or 39F.
We tried to buy pellets for the stufa last week where we usually buy and they had none, and no idea when, or if, they would get any 🫤. So we bought two small bags at the grocery store when shopping. Those went into the hopper on the stove and I lit it up this morning. Nice and cozy. We need to do a recon to see if we can find any pellets anywhere. They seem to be a casualty of the Ukrainian war.
I busied myself making soup this morning for my lunches this week. Then I decided to go for a walk. It had warmed up and was sunny by 11:30. Beautiful day. Brilliant blue skies will get up into the 60s today. I had wanted to combine errands with my walk but forgot to bring my purse into which I had put everything I needed to get them done! Oh well, I made the most of the day and took a few photos. I will do captions.
This was near our trash receptacles. Inside a gate. There is a large bush loaded with these pristine white berries. I don’t know what it is.The pretty red tree in the sunlight caught my eye, but then I noticed the phone booth. Ya don’t see one of these every day! But we still do here 🙂Complete with functioning telephone…This is Piazza Carlo Marx. Really. It is. And it is the street in front of our new apartment.This will be our new place. Not the prettiest building. We will be the top two floors. You can see the terrazza on the top floor. It is a convenient location and only a 7 minute walk from the main Piazza in Centro.For a small town like Umbertide, we have a very nice Cinema. This is just next to our new place.I was on the way back and saw the pretty red vine on the bridge. It’s not a very good picture.In Piazza 25 Aprile. It is laundry day. Some say these are the Italian flag 😁
Tomorrow we, and the buyers of our Casa in Centro will go to the Notaio to sign Powers of Attorney for the sale. It is a notable, if bittersweet for us, occasion.
Sadly I had no candy. I have never had a trick or treater here. In past years the kids dressed up and went to the nearby stores to get treats. I watch them in the Piazza. Over our eight years here it is noticeable that there are many more kids participating now. When my doorbell buzzed tonight and I went and asked who it was, I heard a little voice say “dolcetto o scherzetto”. So sorry I had no candy. Next year I will buy some. Also our new neighborhood probably will have more kids so I will prepare! I have always loved Halloween.
Today is All Saints Day or Giorno di Tutti Santi and it’s a holiday. Everyone attends mass for the dead. Then they visit the cemetery and their lost loved ones. We had our Italian lessons today via Skype as usual.
Yesterday I saw someone advertising a dutch oven and smaller cast iron pot. I told them I wanted them. So, after my lesson I went up to their home in the hills above Umbertide. They are Americans who used to live here full time and now live here half the year. I only wish I had taken a picture from their house. What a view! The entire city of Umbertide was there below, and above it, and across the valley was Monte Acuto, our big mountain near here. And they are only around 5-10 minutes from Umbertide but are up in the hills with a property from which they were harvesting the olives today. Here is what I bought. I will save the pots for our new house and the fireplaces.
Someday, after we move, I am sure I will post when I use them!
I bought some pretty greens for my next soup. They are called bietola here. When I put them in the translate app they say chard. But they also have what I call Swiss chard here, in red and yellow varieties which is different — chisa! Here is a picture of what I used. I am sure you could use the colorful chard as well.
I cooked a batch of dried cannellini beans yesterday. Today I used them with the greens. You can also use cans of cooked cannellini. It was a truly delicious soup. I will make it again.
Here is the recipe which I will also include on my recipes page.
Bietola and cannellini bean soup
2 carrots chopped 1 large stalk celery chopped 1 medium onion chopped 4 cloves garlic minced Handful of dried mushrooms (like porcini), soaked and chopped, saving the liquid 2-3 cans cannellini beans or cooked dry beans 1 sprig rosemary 1 bunch bietola, washed and chopped, including stems Water with 1 vegetable bouillon cube or vegetable stock Salt and pepper A little vinegar (optional)
Sauté carrots, onions and celery in oil until soft. Add garlic and sauté for 30 seconds. Add chopped mushrooms and their water, strained for grit, beans, rosemary, bietola, water or stock and/or vegetable cube and salt. Cook 30 minutes. Taste and adjust salt and add pepper. Off heat. Add a splash of vinegar to brighten it a bit if desired. Buon appetito!
On Saturday we had lunch with one of my long-time friends who was once my boss many moons ago. She and her husband are visiting Italy and are staying near Cortona. We met in the middle at a restaurant we have passed by a million times, but never have we eaten there. It is on the top of a mountain and has a view to die for of Lago Trasimeno. It is called Lo Scoiattolo which means the squirrel.
She brought me a couple of things from home — first, some always much appreciated ziplock bags. Between Shirley and other friends I think I am now set for a couple of years! But she also brought me a package of Alaskan smoked salmon which she had bought while on a cruise in Alaska. What a great thing to get! I haven’t had this for donkeys years, which, trust me, is a long time!
So, I decided to make a recipe I have been waiting to try. Pasta with pistachio ”cream” and smoked salmon. The pistachios are not a cream. They call them a pesto, but not a normal pesto to me. It is just ground up pistachios and olive oil, and a little salt and water. It becomes very creamy.
Pistacchio pestoThe salmonFinal dish.
It was yummy. It was also super rich. Feeling full!
For those interested, my knee is much better. Seems the olive harvest perked it right up! My calf muscles were sore, probably from standing on tiptoe. But the knee is pretty good now. YAY!
